Get the ATI fixed.
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Get the ATI fixed.
No. Dave was talking about the switching noise that a class D amplifier makes, not about what kind of a power supply it has. A class D amplifier works differently from a class A/B amplifier. Class D amp is not a linear gain device like class A/B are. Class D manufactures gain through a process of rapid switching between output transistors. Basically it outputs a pulse train (pulse width, pulse density, etc. similar to the way a PWM controller can control a servo motor). The audio modulates the pulse train. The pulses themselves are "cleaned off" the signal using a low pass filter between the output of the amp and the speaker cable connector. The noise Dave is talking about occurs when the circuits switch from one side to the other in creating the pulse train. This occurs in the signal path; it's very difficult to keep all this noise out of the signal going to the speaker. As a result, if it's in the signal the speakers can reproduce it as an audible artifact. I'll make some people run from the room.
The reason to use a class D amplifier is the very high efficiency. They work great in subwoofers for example, where the efficiency is really needed, and the switching noise is well beyond what the subwoofer can produce, so you can't hear it.
A switching mode power supply OTOH, is a modern light weight high efficiency (less waste heat so less need of noisy fans) power supply that converts the AC power from your wall plug to the various DC power rails that the amplifier needs to function. While it works somewhat similarly to the class D amp, what it is doing is not directly in the signal path, so in a properly designed amplifier it does not cause audible artifacts.
"If it sounds good, it is good." -- Duke Ellington
I've used class D amps, and I've never had issues (and I have fantastic hearing on audiometric testing despite my mid-40's age). It's the design of the class D that matters.
Currently, a meager 35WPC Marantz HD-AMP1 (class-D integrated amp with fabulous DAC) is driving my Sierra-2's working as near field monitors on the computer but even at 1/4 power, the sound fills my office.
Last edited by bkdc; 10-13-2017 at 03:23 PM.
Class D amps have gained a lot of traction in recent years in automotive applications because their advantages in power efficiency and small size factor are more important in car / ATV / motorcycle / boat installations. At the same time, due to the comparatively high ambient noise levels in those same applications, any class D inherent noise is less likely to be problematic. For example, I used a class D marine amp from JL Audio in an install for my boat a couple years ago. As music listening sometimes occured with engines off, minimal power consumed from batteries = longer music time at the sand bar without risking restart problems. It is always noisy on the water, so I never heard any amp noise above the ambient noise floor.
Back on topic, you might consider getting a solid AVR (Marantz, Denon, Pioneer, Yamaha, etc) then determine if you want to add a dedicated amp later.
I have a Yamaha AVR (90 WPC) and find the sound is a lot better when I add my ATI power amp. I use the ATI for the front three channels since it had a blown channel.
Right now I want to improve on music listening rather than HT. I've been using my Yamaha as a preamp mainly. I'm leaning towards Emotiva but am also interested in Schiit, Parasound and Rotel. This assumes that I can't find a local shop to fix my ATI.
Apropos the discussion of Class D amps, I wonder if anyone has used a Rogue Sphinx v2 with Sierra-2, and how it's sounded? Esp. if you have reference to some other set-ups.
Thanks Beave for your posts above, esp. the one detailing your comparison of several amps. That actually has me hesitant to spend beaucoup bucks on a more serious amp than what I have (an Integra AVR), but see? I ask anyway. The upgrade bug turns in the brain.
I understand the concern about switching noise with Class D amps and RAAL tweeters, but am curious if this applies to Class G, such as the Outlaw 2200 mono blocks? I've heard Class G referred to as "hybrid" amps, but admit I don't really understand the concept at this point. Can anyone enlighten me?
I can't speak to the difference between class G and class D, but this review of M2200 claims that it is class AB for the first 80 watts. Above that it quickly switches (within 2 microseconds) to class G...
https://hometheaterhifi.com/volume_1...er-4-2003.html