The image of Sierra-2 that's on http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages...SRM2/srm2.html seem to be already with RAAL, if so, what is the [Sierra-2 upgrade kit] for?
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The image of Sierra-2 that's on http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages...SRM2/srm2.html seem to be already with RAAL, if so, what is the [Sierra-2 upgrade kit] for?
I can appreciate your confusion as someone who just discovers these products, and has not been in the loop like some of us nut heads!
I disagree, however, that it should be on the Sierra-1 page. If someone is shopping the speaker page and has ruled out the -2's based on budget, they will gravitate to the -1's, and would never buy a new pair of -1's AND the -2 upgrades together. The reason, I believe, to keep the info on the -2 page is for a current -1/NrT owner considering upgrading to the -2's under several conditions: (1) They don't want to try selling their -1's and using the proceeds towards a new pair of -2's, so this saves them the hassle. (2) They simply cannot afford a complete new pair.
There are probably many more reasons I am missing, but those are the major points.
I suppose Ascend could put a little link on -1 page, such as: "To upgrade existing Sierra-1/NrT to Sierra-2 click here".
http://i63.tinypic.com/2mxlnbd.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/14j9n3n.jpg
Pics of the diaphragms, I think they're ok?
I just finished upgrading a pair of Sierra 1 speakers, and the improvements puts a smile on my face. The ribbons really are detailed, and the driver is quite a treat. Jazz, vocals and instruments all sound so natural and open. This kit is definitely a worthwhile upgrade and I'd recommend it to anyone who wants more out of their music.
Yes, it was enjoyable. The written instructions and the videos made the process easy to follow and took any guess work out of the equation. In fact, I also have some old Sierra 1's that are about 8 years old. I installed the drivers and crossovers from the first pair in them as well just because I could!
Again, anyone that's considering this upgrade, the results really are worth it.
Just an FYI to folks. I ordered a pair of upgrade kits, and Dina tells me they are currently out of stock until after the holidays.
Ah well, gives me something fun to look forward to. :)
I really appreciate having a clear upgrade path, so I can invest in my system gradually. The option of this upgrade kit is a big reason I went with Sierra-1s in the first place. Thanks for offering it!
Just finished my upgrade. Lots of fun!
My other obsession is photography, so I thought I'd document the process. Here's a few samples:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/...7f761af0_c.jpgRemove tweeter by Kevin, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4672/...c0fab87b_c.jpgRemoved woofer by Kevin, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4655/...b21b2ed8_c.jpgRemove crossover screws with small screwdriver by Kevin, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4755/...4e4487c0_c.jpgPlace and screw in Sierra-2 crossover by Kevin, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4657/...ddf3c667_c.jpgConnect ribbon tweeter wires by Kevin, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4614/...0305a828_c.jpgConnect woofer wires by Kevin, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4710/...393d2811_c.jpgPaper is magnetically attracted, keep sliding down by Kevin, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4611/...cd0dbe39_c.jpgSierra-2 and Sierra-1 together by Kevin, on Flickr
I couldn't post more than this with current forum limits, but I documented all steps. Full set here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/s...h/25087053247/
Cheers, and thanks for the awesome upgrade path!
-Kevin
Great pics Kevin - thanks
Wow those pics on Flickr are really well presented. How long did it take you to do this? I'm torn between doing this or simply selling and buying a new set. Thanks!
Thanks chas and rifmon, I appreciate that.
I took my time and experimented a bit. Setup, shooting, teardown, and post processing took most of a nice lazy Saturday.
Just doing the swap without shooting photos is way faster. :) The second speaker I did after I tore down the photo setup. Took me 40 minutes going carefully.
I encourage everyone to give it a shot! I'm certainly not the handiest person, but it was a great experience.
Great! So 40 minutes on one after you did it once is pretty, Pretty Good!
I imagine it could take maybe 4 hours sans photo shop prep and take-down. Not bad at all. Still not certain if I'm going to proceed with a kit vs new and sell off mine. I do know my cabinets will work without surgery though.
So from what you're saying, the kit install connects one to his or her 2's! But your pics and labels on Flickr are so well mapped out, I think I could do it if I choose to proceed.
Oh yeah, four hours should be plenty. Be sure to check out the videos in the first link as well, I found those very helpful to understand the process before I dove in.
Also note, I noticed earlier in this thread a few mentions that Ascend can also do the upgrade for you. I'd contact them before selling your pair if you opt not to do it yourself.
Cheers,
-Kevin
Thanks.
I have a $ question; Are the Sierra-1 tweeters, woofers and crossovers worth any money on the second-hand market to help offset the cost of the kits at $816.00?
To those who did the upgrade, were you able to sell the 1's successfully?
I'm thinking I could get at least $400.00 is for my 1's leaving less than $1000.00 to come up with for a brand new set.
Thanks
Is Ascend still buying back Sierra-1 parts?
Makes sense. Thanks, Dave.
Kevin,
Just finished an LCR S1 to S2 upgrade. Between your pics, the written instructions, and the YT videos, it was a smooth project and enjoyable. The fun starts now as I am working back through my SACD and movie libraries!
Thanks to you and the helpful folks at Ascend (aka Amy).
Cheers,
XEagleDriver
The S2EX upgrade instruction sheet refers to this thread for Video links. But all I can find is the S1->S2 videos. Am I missing something?
I'm rather surprised to learn that the driver connections are not silver soldered, in order to reduce contact resistance to a minimum, and to eliminate fretting corrosion.
Would it hurt the drivers at all to solder the leads as opposed to using crimp spades?
Thanks
Hi Q,
Those are faston connectors, and they are an industry standard and used in just about every speaker out there. I have never come across any production line manufactured speaker that actually soldered the connectors to the driver. Doing so would be a logistical nightmare, dramatically raising costs with no benefits. When it comes to resistance, we are talking about thousandths of an ohm here, immeasurable and having zero effect on performance.
You can attempt soldering the leads if you like, but unless you have serious solder skills - you will heat up the tinsel wires on the driver and potentially cause permanent damage. I don't recommend it.
Thanks Dave.
I know the Legacy Focus speakers I had were soldered. (Which didnt make up for their other shortcomings) I've seen the effects of fretting corrosion on moving/vibrating connections, and many times dielectric grease is recommended. Perhaps that might be an option?
Some Audiophiles pay big $ to get that thousandth of an ohm out of their speaker wire! ...and pay huge sums for an amp with a giant damping factor! Probably some of the same folks who dont want any passive crossovers in their speakers!?
Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove a "stuck" Sierra2EX woofer? I'm upgrading to the V2 crossovers and one of the woofers does not want to be removed. The fit it too tight and gravity isn't enough to get it out.
Did you try the trick with one of the screws as per the instructions?
https://ascendacoustics.com/collecti...40434233278518
If the screw doesn't work, you may want to try the same but using something longer (like a screwdriver) as it will give more leverage.
Try something longer than a screw so you can get more leverage.
a couple of other thoughts:
1. maybe try a plastic putty knife between the woofer and cabinet on the outer diameter of the woofer.
2. maybe try rotating the woofer clockwise/counter clockwise a few times. Woofer/gasket may be stuck to the cabinet.
3. maybe try chilling the outer metal frame of the woofer with compressed air
Thanks for the suggestions! In this case it appears that the woofer is very tight particularly on the left and right sides (when viewed upright). There's a tiny bit of space along the top and bottom, but not on the left and right edges. I thought about rotating it, but would need to come up with a way to do so safely as that would likely take a fair amount of force to get it moving (and no easy way to do that). I'm starting to wonder if I can make a jig that would fit through the tweeter hole and down in front of the port so that I could push it from behind. Probably could, but would be tricky to get it right.
I sent a note to Dave & Dina a little while ago, and will see what they say. I just want to make sure that I do what I can to avoid any cabinet damage.
Thanks again!
You're welcome.
Can you use two screws or two Philip head screwdrivers in opposite screw holes to try & rotate?
As to pushing from behind, maybe a long spatula, wooden spoon or plastic ruler might work?
Hopefully, Dave and Dina will have some other suggestions.
Good luck with it. Let us know how you finally got it out!
Got it! I completely forgot I had an Ascend Woofer Removal Tool (AWRT) in the basement...
Attachment 2601
Wedge the nail head under the rim and carefully pull. Hope this helps someone else.