Preamp/Amp Suggestion for Sierra 2

[PoppaOptic]

I am looking to upgrade to separates from a Yamaha receiver for listening to music. I have been looking at Emotiva XSP-1 and Paradound Halo P5 for preamps and would probably use amp from same company. Does any have experience with either? Other suggestions are welcome!

[sharkman]

The Ascend school of thought on their speakers is typically that a receiver can run them just fine, and no amps are required. That said, I owned the Sierra 2 for about 3 years and they also ran just fine with a Parasound Halo A21(with P7 as pre), which has 250 wpc. My findings, which if I recall I also read on this forum, is that the Sierra 2 is somewhat laid back in presentation, not bright or harsh at all. I think I read that the Tower with Rall has a little more energy in the highs than the S2.

The thing is, Parasound's house sound is also somewhat laid back, or warm on the top end. At times I wished for a little more energy in fact. So it would depend on your preferences, but you might consider this in your deliberations. I don't know what Emotiva's House sound is these days. They always insisted that they were dead neutral, but when I owned the XPA-3, I found that they were bright/harsh, at least with the XPA amp line.

Yamaha is supposed to have a more forward sound. How do you find the highs with the Yamaha?

[PoppaOptic]

The Ascend school of thought on their speakers is typically that a receiver can run them just fine, and no amps are required. That said, I owned the Sierra 2 for about 3 years and they also ran just fine with a Parasound Halo A21(with P7 as pre), which has 250 wpc. My findings, which if I recall I also read on this forum, is that the Sierra 2 is somewhat laid back in presentation, not bright or harsh at all. I think I read that the Tower with Rall has a little more energy in the highs than the S2.

The thing is, Parasound's house sound is also somewhat laid back, or warm on the top end. At times I wished for a little more energy in fact. So it would depend on your preferences, but you might consider this in your deliberations. I don't know what Emotiva's House sound is these days. They always insisted that they were dead neutral, but when I owned the XPA-3, I found that they were bright/harsh, at least with the XPA amp line.

Yamaha is supposed to have a more forward sound. How do you find the highs with the Yamaha?


Hmmm. Not sure if my reply posted or not. So here goes again! Sorry if duplicate.

My current setup is a Yamaha AVR with an ATI 1505 power amp. I have the Sierra 2 and Sierra 1 along with various NHT speakers. For music listening I much prefer Pure Direct mode. The Sierra 2 speakers have tremendous detail and clarity. I especially notice this with acoustic guitars and drums and cymbals. The problem is I prefer more bass and in Pure Direct the subwoofers are not used. I tried using the speaker level inputs on the subs but the Sierra 2 didn't sound as good. The mids and highs sound muted. This is what led me to the P5 and XSP-1. Both have analog bass management which will allow me to add the subs for music. It also means not changing cables when listening to music or watching a movie.

I've read the sound of Parasound is warm and Emotiva is bright too. This is why I was looking for feedback from folks that use the same speaker I am. I like the detail and "air" of the Sierra 2 but don't want to have it become overly bright or harsh. To me titanium dome tweeters can be harsh.

I'm open to different preamp/amp combos for sure. For this upgrade it's music first!

Thanks for the reply!

[BrianNLS]

I am using a Yamaha RX-A3060 running a 5.1.4 / 7.1 HT setup with an Outlaw 5000 powering Sierra-2 L & R and Horizon center. The AVR handles the rest of the channels with the Outlaw picking up power for a secondary zone.

I could not be happier with the sound, whether running Atmos with YPAO adjustments or pure direct stereo live music recordings. I hear great HT soundtracks and great music, at more volume than is good for my ears, with no coloration. Give the Outlaw a listen, you may love it.

[merrymaid520]

I have a similar setup as mentioned above, a Parasound A21 and P7 running my RAAL towers. For movies I use a Yamaha cx-5000 processor. The Parasound gear definitely sounds better to me over the Yamaha, even my previous two Parasound preamps were better (p5 and 2100).

Just my $.02

[PoppaOptic]

I am using a Yamaha RX-A3060 running a 5.1.4 / 7.1 HT setup with an Outlaw 5000 powering Sierra-2 L & R and Horizon center. The AVR handles the rest of the channels with the Outlaw picking up power for a secondary zone.

I could not be happier with the sound, whether running Atmos with YPAO adjustments or pure direct stereo live music recordings. I hear great HT soundtracks and great music, at more volume than is good for my ears, with no coloration. Give the Outlaw a listen, you may love it.


Outlaw is on my radar for a power amp. Nice to hear they sound good with Yamaha and Sierras. Do you hear a difference when running Pure Direct? My Yamaha, RXV667, is about 5 years old and I can definitely hear a difference.

Thanks for the reply!

[PoppaOptic]

I have a similar setup as mentioned above, a Parasound A21 and P7 running my RAAL towers. For movies I use a Yamaha cx-5000 processor. The Parasound gear definitely sounds better to me over the Yamaha, even my previous two Parasound preamps were better (p5 and 2100).

Just my $.02

Sounds like a nice setup! Do you run subs with the towers? I've not heard them but was curious how the bass sounded. Have you tried any other brands of preamps?

Thanks!

[merrymaid520]

Sounds like a nice setup! Do you run subs with the towers? I've not heard them but was curious how the bass sounded. Have you tried any other brands of preamps?

Thanks!

I have dual 15” Rythmiks with a behringer EQ. Towers are crossed over at 80hz from what I recall. Have not tried any other preamps other than a proceed pre ages ago.

[BrianNLS]

Outlaw is on my radar for a power amp. Nice to hear they sound good with Yamaha and Sierras. Do you hear a difference when running Pure Direct? My Yamaha, RXV667, is about 5 years old and I can definitely hear a difference.

Thanks for the reply!

I assume you mean Pure Direct with the Yamaha feeding the Outlaw powering the Ascends vs Pure Direct with the Yamaha powering the Ascends directly... I did a brief test of this a couple of months ago, and, honestly, it did not sound much different. I did not measure anything, but both setups sounded excellent - clean, clear, uncolored - to me (using my favorite reference CDs: Eagles' Hell Freezes Over (live) and Norah Jones' Come Away With Me.) Both setups performed similarly from very low volume to reference(ish) sound pressure levels.

I brought the Outlaw into the equation for two reasons:
A) do the heavy lifting on front 3 duty in high output HT use (reducing the strain on the RX-A3060)
B) provide power for more channels than the RX-A3060 can do alone

Is there a better performing & sounding pre-amp/amp/AVR combo out there without worrying aboht $$$? Of course.
Is there a better balance of performance, sound, and value than an RX-A30x0 AVR + an Outlaw 5000? None that I know.

I am very happy with my setup.

[JC1]

I have an older but awesome Parasound HCA-1205A amp, 5 channels conservatively rated 140 watts per and I want to get 3 Sierra 2's LCR, and Luna surrounds. Parasound enough to drive these babies? I know it drives my Def Techs really, really well now.

[mikesiskav]

I have an older but awesome Parasound HCA-1205A amp, 5 channels conservatively rated 140 watts per and I want to get 3 Sierra 2's LCR, and Luna surrounds. Parasound enough to drive these babies? I know it drives my Def Techs really, really well now.

That Parasound should be just fine for the Sierra-2.

[JC1]

Yeah I thought so. Parasound rocks, they don't design garbage at any price point. I just talked to a guy that gave some serious praise to the Sierra 2's and the RAAL Ribbon tweeter. I gotta hear these speakers. First order is going to be 3 Sierra 2's LCR.

[curtis]

I have an older but awesome Parasound HCA-1205A amp, 5 channels conservatively rated 140 watts per and I want to get 3 Sierra 2's LCR, and Luna surrounds. Parasound enough to drive these babies? I know it drives my Def Techs really, really well now.


That Parasound should be just fine for the Sierra-2.
Yeah...Mike is right, the Parasound will be fine.

I use an ATI 1505, which is 150wpc. No issues.

Ascend speakers are all easy to drive.

[PoppaOptic]

I have an ATI 1505 also, but one channel is dead. I was thinking of trying Class D Audio for a light weight amp that seems to get great reviews. Also looking at Schiit too for pre and amp. Sounds like just need to be careful if WPC is high but no issues. Seems like there are too many good choices!

[davef]

I have an ATI 1505 also, but one channel is dead. I was thinking of trying Class D Audio for a light weight amp that seems to get great reviews. Also looking at Schiit too for pre and amp. Sounds like just need to be careful if WPC is high but no issues. Seems like there are too many good choices!

I generally don't recommend Class D amps with our RAAL ribbon based speakers, the speakers are just too revealing of class D switching noise. Stick with class A/B - or get the ATI amp fixed :)

[JC1]

Thanks, I thought so, just wanted to see what Ascend owners thought. I have been reading incredible things about Ascend and the Sierra 2's in particular. I haven't seen or read a bad thing. I can't wait to make my first purchase of 3 Sierra 2's! I mean the way people talk about them is quite crazy. Things like "these are the best speakers, period". I mean that is serious praise.

[PoppaOptic]

I generally don't recommend Class D amps with our RAAL ribbon based speakers, the speakers are just too revealing of class D switching noise. Stick with class A/B - or get the ATI amp fixed :)

Thanks for the helpful info!

Based on this it would seem the Emotiva might not be the best choice since it uses a switch mode power supply. I do like the ATI amp but it seems cost prohibitive to fix. None of the local shops want to tackle the job and the cost to ship the amp from New Hampshire to California was very high. I think I'll recheck the shipping costs again though.

[PoppaOptic]

Thanks, I thought so, just wanted to see what Ascend owners thought. I have been reading incredible things about Ascend and the Sierra 2's in particular. I haven't seen or read a bad thing. I can't wait to make my first purchase of 3 Sierra 2's! I mean the way people talk about them is quite crazy. Things like "these are the best speakers, period". I mean that is serious praise.

You can't go wrong with the Sierra 2! My first set of speakers from Ascend was the Sierra 1 (L/R/C) and the sound was definitely a step up from my NHT speakers. Like you I kept seeing the great reviews on the Sierra 2 and the RAAL tweeter. I wasn't sure the change would be noticeable. After I played the first CD once they were setup it was obvious the detail and clarity was a lot better. Plus the bass is very musical for a bookshelf. I can't say enough about them! Once i get a new Amp I plan to upgrade my 3 Sierra 1 to Sierra 2 then have a 5-way system for music and HT with Sierra 2. That will be amazing!

[SunByrne]

Thanks for the helpful info!

Based on this it would seem the Emotiva might not be the best choice since it uses a switch mode power supply.

Totally different than the switching Dave is talking about with a Class D amp. Emotiva should be fine.

[PoppaOptic]

Totally different than the switching Dave is talking about with a Class D amp. Emotiva should be fine.

Thanks for the clarification. Emotiva stays on my short list in that case.

[curtis]

Get the ATI fixed. :)

[Bruce Watson]

Based on this it would seem the Emotiva might not be the best choice since it uses a switch mode power supply.

No. Dave was talking about the switching noise that a class D amplifier makes, not about what kind of a power supply it has. A class D amplifier works differently from a class A/B amplifier. Class D amp is not a linear gain device like class A/B are. Class D manufactures gain through a process of rapid switching between output transistors. Basically it outputs a pulse train (pulse width, pulse density, etc. similar to the way a PWM controller can control a servo motor). The audio modulates the pulse train. The pulses themselves are "cleaned off" the signal using a low pass filter between the output of the amp and the speaker cable connector. The noise Dave is talking about occurs when the circuits switch from one side to the other in creating the pulse train. This occurs in the signal path; it's very difficult to keep all this noise out of the signal going to the speaker. As a result, if it's in the signal the speakers can reproduce it as an audible artifact. I'll make some people run from the room.

The reason to use a class D amplifier is the very high efficiency. They work great in subwoofers for example, where the efficiency is really needed, and the switching noise is well beyond what the subwoofer can produce, so you can't hear it.

A switching mode power supply OTOH, is a modern light weight high efficiency (less waste heat so less need of noisy fans) power supply that converts the AC power from your wall plug to the various DC power rails that the amplifier needs to function. While it works somewhat similarly to the class D amp, what it is doing is not directly in the signal path, so in a properly designed amplifier it does not cause audible artifacts.

[davef]

No. Dave was talking about the switching noise that a class D amplifier makes, not about what kind of a power supply it has. A class D amplifier works differently from a class A/B amplifier. Class D amp is not a linear gain device like class A/B are. Class D manufactures gain through a process of rapid switching between output transistors. Basically it outputs a pulse train (pulse width, pulse density, etc. similar to the way a PWM controller can control a servo motor). The audio modulates the pulse train. The pulses themselves are "cleaned off" the signal using a low pass filter between the output of the amp and the speaker cable connector. The noise Dave is talking about occurs when the circuits switch from one side to the other in creating the pulse train. This occurs in the signal path; it's very difficult to keep all this noise out of the signal going to the speaker. As a result, if it's in the signal the speakers can reproduce it as an audible artifact. I'll make some people run from the room.

The reason to use a class D amplifier is the very high efficiency. They work great in subwoofers for example, where the efficiency is really needed, and the switching noise is well beyond what the subwoofer can produce, so you can't hear it.

A switching mode power supply OTOH, is a modern light weight high efficiency (less waste heat so less need of noisy fans) power supply that converts the AC power from your wall plug to the various DC power rails that the amplifier needs to function. While it works somewhat similarly to the class D amp, what it is doing is not directly in the signal path, so in a properly designed amplifier it does not cause audible artifacts.

Excellent post and 100% correct!!! Thanks!

[bkdc]

I've used class D amps, and I've never had issues (and I have fantastic hearing on audiometric testing despite my mid-40's age). It's the design of the class D that matters.

Currently, a meager 35WPC Marantz HD-AMP1 (class-D integrated amp with fabulous DAC) is driving my Sierra-2's working as near field monitors on the computer but even at 1/4 power, the sound fills my office.

[PoppaOptic]

No. Dave was talking about the switching noise that a class D amplifier makes, not about what kind of a power supply it has. A class D amplifier works differently from a class A/B amplifier. Class D amp is not a linear gain device like class A/B are. Class D manufactures gain through a process of rapid switching between output transistors. Basically it outputs a pulse train (pulse width, pulse density, etc. similar to the way a PWM controller can control a servo motor). The audio modulates the pulse train. The pulses themselves are "cleaned off" the signal using a low pass filter between the output of the amp and the speaker cable connector. The noise Dave is talking about occurs when the circuits switch from one side to the other in creating the pulse train. This occurs in the signal path; it's very difficult to keep all this noise out of the signal going to the speaker. As a result, if it's in the signal the speakers can reproduce it as an audible artifact. I'll make some people run from the room.

The reason to use a class D amplifier is the very high efficiency. They work great in subwoofers for example, where the efficiency is really needed, and the switching noise is well beyond what the subwoofer can produce, so you can't hear it.

A switching mode power supply OTOH, is a modern light weight high efficiency (less waste heat so less need of noisy fans) power supply that converts the AC power from your wall plug to the various DC power rails that the amplifier needs to function. While it works somewhat similarly to the class D amp, what it is doing is not directly in the signal path, so in a properly designed amplifier it does not cause audible artifacts.

Thanks for the explanation!

[BrianNLS]

Class D amps have gained a lot of traction in recent years in automotive applications because their advantages in power efficiency and small size factor are more important in car / ATV / motorcycle / boat installations. At the same time, due to the comparatively high ambient noise levels in those same applications, any class D inherent noise is less likely to be problematic. For example, I used a class D marine amp from JL Audio in an install for my boat a couple years ago. As music listening sometimes occured with engines off, minimal power consumed from batteries = longer music time at the sand bar without risking restart problems. It is always noisy on the water, so I never heard any amp noise above the ambient noise floor.

Back on topic, you might consider getting a solid AVR (Marantz, Denon, Pioneer, Yamaha, etc) then determine if you want to add a dedicated amp later.

[PoppaOptic]

Class D amps have gained a lot of traction in recent years in automotive applications because their advantages in power efficiency and small size factor are more important in car / ATV / motorcycle / boat installations. At the same time, due to the comparatively high ambient noise levels in those same applications, any class D inherent noise is less likely to be problematic. For example, I used a class D marine amp from JL Audio in an install for my boat a couple years ago. As music listening sometimes occured with engines off, minimal power consumed from batteries = longer music time at the sand bar without risking restart problems. It is always noisy on the water, so I never heard any amp noise above the ambient noise floor.

Back on topic, you might consider getting a solid AVR (Marantz, Denon, Pioneer, Yamaha, etc) then determine if you want to add a dedicated amp later.


I have a Yamaha AVR (90 WPC) and find the sound is a lot better when I add my ATI power amp. I use the ATI for the front three channels since it had a blown channel.

Right now I want to improve on music listening rather than HT. I've been using my Yamaha as a preamp mainly. I'm leaning towards Emotiva but am also interested in Schiit, Parasound and Rotel. This assumes that I can't find a local shop to fix my ATI.

[Octave]

Apropos the discussion of Class D amps, I wonder if anyone has used a Rogue Sphinx v2 with Sierra-2, and how it's sounded? Esp. if you have reference to some other set-ups.

Thanks Beave for your posts above, esp. the one detailing your comparison of several amps. That actually has me hesitant to spend beaucoup bucks on a more serious amp than what I have (an Integra AVR), but see? I ask anyway. The upgrade bug turns in the brain.

[SteveM]

I understand the concern about switching noise with Class D amps and RAAL tweeters, but am curious if this applies to Class G, such as the Outlaw 2200 mono blocks? I've heard Class G referred to as "hybrid" amps, but admit I don't really understand the concept at this point. Can anyone enlighten me?

[dkuster]

I understand the concern about switching noise with Class D amps and RAAL tweeters, but am curious if this applies to Class G, such as the Outlaw 2200 mono blocks? I've heard Class G referred to as "hybrid" amps, but admit I don't really understand the concept at this point. Can anyone enlighten me?

I can't speak to the difference between class G and class D, but this review of M2200 claims that it is class AB for the first 80 watts. Above that it quickly switches (within 2 microseconds) to class G...

https://hometheaterhifi.com/volume_10_2/outlaw-audio-200-amplifier-4-2003.html

[dkuster]

The Benchmark AHB2 amplifier is Stereophile Class A rated in their recent "recommended components" list. The reviews all seem to tout its incredibly low distortion and noise floor.

The design appears to be some new variation on class AB / class H / class D ??

The manufacturer claims the technology "virtually eliminates all forms of distortion".

https://benchmarkmedia.com/products/benchmark-ahb2-power-amplifier

I'd love to be able to someday replace my ~90 lb. beast with something this small and light...

[dkuster]

I understand the concern about switching noise with Class D amps and RAAL tweeters, but am curious if this applies to Class G, such as the Outlaw 2200 mono blocks? I've heard Class G referred to as "hybrid" amps, but admit I don't really understand the concept at this point. Can anyone enlighten me?

After doing some reading I think I can explain the gist of it.

Class G and H are modifications to a class AB amplifier's output stages to improve its efficiency and reduce wasted heat/electricity.

The modifications are to the output stage rail voltages, so technically not in the signal path(?)

Class G: Several rail voltages are available, and the lowest one that will do the job at any given moment is selected. For example, during a quiet music passage the rail voltages are +/- 10 V, when the music gets louder the rails switch to +/- 20 V, and at the loudest levels +/- 40 V is selected.

Class H: The rail voltage is a continuously variable analog voltage. Based on the input music signal, just enough voltage is supplied to the output devices for them to reproduce an amplified version of the input.

Class H is more efficient than class G, but also more complex.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_amplifier_classes

[SteveM]

After doing some reading I think I can explain the gist of it.

Class G and H are modifications to a class AB amplifier's output stages to improve its efficiency and reduce wasted heat/electricity.

The modifications are to the output stage rail voltages, so technically not in the signal path(?)

Class G: Several rail voltages are available, and the lowest one that will do the job at any given moment is selected. For example, during a quiet music passage the rail voltages are +/- 10 V, when the music gets louder the rails switch to +/- 20 V, and at the loudest levels +/- 40 V is selected.

Class H: The rail voltage is a continuously variable analog voltage. Based on the input music signal, just enough voltage is supplied to the output devices for them to reproduce an amplified version of the input.

Class H is more efficient than class G, but also more complex.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_amplifier_classes

Thanks very much, very interesting. So you think Class G may immune from the switching noise Dave warned of in Class D?

[dkuster]

Thanks very much, very interesting. So you think Class G may immune from the switching noise Dave warned of in Class D?

Yes, possibly. That Benchmark AHB2 amplifier I referenced appears to be a class H or class G variant, and the specs claim incredibly low distortion and noise floor.

Again, the basis of class H/G is a class AB amplifier topology. So the input signal is not being modeled as a PWM pulse train as in class D.

But I still wonder if switching between different output stage voltage rails (class G) or continuously varying it (class H) might introduce artifacts that can be audible?

[davef]

Yes, possibly. That Benchmark AHB2 amplifier I referenced appears to be a class H or class G variant, and the specs claim incredibly low distortion and noise floor.

Again, the basis of class H/G is a class AB amplifier topology. So the input signal is not being modeled as a PWM pulse train as in class D.

But I still wonder if switching between different output stage voltage rails (class G) or continuously varying it (class H) might introduce artifacts that can be audible?

This is an interesting technology and could be the best of both worlds... Due to the output transistors always receiving voltage (from either the high or low voltage rails) - I believe the switching noise in Class D variants would be eliminated.

[SteveM]

Very interesting! Thank you, Dave and dkuster, for the input. Anybody have experience with the Outlaw 2200 mono block amps? Wonder how they might match up with my Lunas, or the Sierra 2s?

[dkuster]

Very interesting! Thank you, Dave and dkuster, for the input. Anybody have experience with the Outlaw 2200 mono block amps? Wonder how they might match up with my Lunas, or the Sierra 2s?

I have 5 Outlaw 2200 monoblocks. I use them to drive the center, surrounds, and backs in my all Vandersteen 7.1 home theater/music room.

I should say, "until recently all Vandersteen", as I've sold my heavy and expensive Vandersteen Model 5's after auditioning Sierra Towers w/ RAAL. I would have made the switch to the Towers if they were just able to hold their own against the Vandys.

Turns out I liked them _much_ better. Smoother, more extended highs, tighter, more articulate bass - although not quite as much bass. Still I'm amazed at how much bass is possible from a couple of 5"-ish drivers.

So I sold the Model 5's and used the money to pay for the RAAL Towers plus a pair of Rythmik F12 subs. Now when I sit down for a listen I can't wipe the silly grin off my face.

Next I'm (patiently - NOT) waiting for the bamboo shortage to end so I can take delivery on a Horizon Center w/ RAAL to replace my Vandersteen VCC-5.

Long term plan is to replace the Vandersteen VSM-1 wall mount speakers with 4 Lunas for surrounds and backs.

Anyway, back on topic - I've driven the Towers with a ModWright KWA-150SE amplifier in the past, but I'm currently using a modified McCormack DNA-1 Deluxe (both 150W per channel, solid state.)

I can swap some wiring and try the Towers with two of the Outlaw 2200's and report back with my impressions on how they compare. If the 2200s can do well with the Towers I think you'd have no problems at all with Sierra 2s or Lunas...

[SteveM]

Definitely would be interested in your impressions if you have time to do that, dkuster. Your trade is quite a compliment to Ascend and the Towers. I'm a beginner who is very grateful I happened on Ascend and the Lunas (which are my LCR). They are powered by my AVR right now, but I'd like to find a nice amp, or in this case amps, for them, and the Outlaws caught my eye.
My Lunas give me a version of that same silly grin you mention. I imagine my face might actually freeze in that position if I were listening to the system you describe!

[dkuster]

Definitely would be interested in your impressions if you have time to do that, dkuster. Your trade is quite a compliment to Ascend and the Towers. I'm a beginner who is very grateful I happened on Ascend and the Lunas (which are my LCR). They are powered by my AVR right now, but I'd like to find a nice amp, or in this case amps, for them, and the Outlaws caught my eye.
My Lunas give me a version of that same silly grin you mention. I imagine my face might actually freeze in that position if I were listening to the system you describe!

Ok, last night I hooked up two Outlaw M2200's to my Towers and had a listen.

First off, I usually don't do reviews as I'm not good with the flowery language and audiophile buzzwords. I can't even give a good definition for some of the terms commonly bandied about.

Second, it's been my experience that unless one is being driven to the point of clipping, or can't handle a certain speaker load, it is very difficult to reliably tell the difference between two well-designed solid state amplifiers.

McCormack DNA-1 vs. ModWright KWA-150SE:
I've had the DNA-1 since the 90's. It is an audiophile classic and has racked up a slew of great reviews. Several years ago I acquired the KWA-150SE. I give the KWA-150SE the slight win over the DNA-1 because to my ears the bass is a bit tighter and punchier. This is a subjective opinion. If you blindfolded me and ran a scientific test the results might be different.

Outlaw M2200 vs. McCormack DNA-1:
This is the only direct comparison I could make, as the KWA-150SE is out for service (needs a bias adjustment to prevent overheating.) And the result? I couldn't tell any difference. I listened to some jazz, female vocals, and rock. It all sounded great - with either amplifier. The Outlaw amps got only slightly warm to the touch.

So maybe a bit anticlimactic and not very insightful, but I think it's high praise for the Outlaw and impressive that it compares well to the McCormack.

I think two of the 2200's would work well for what you propose, and the price is very reasonable.

DISCLAIMER: This is all just my opinion with my gear in my room, and my ears are not as golden as they used to be :p

[SteveM]

Very helpful. Thanks for taking the trouble to work on this. As soon as the Outlaws have another sale, I think I will probably take the plunge and get three 2200s. I think they probably fit my needs and price range better than anything else. Outlaw just announced a new 7-channel for about $1,000, if anyone is interested in that.

[TimiSchor]

As per my knowledge Parasound's house sound is also somewhat laid back, or warm on the top end. At times I wished for a little more energy in fact. So it would depend on your preferences, but you might consider this in your deliberations. I don't know what Emotiva's House sound is these days.

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