Sierra-2 Upgrade instructions with video!

[jamesg]

Sierra-2 Upgrade Instructions

Recommended Tools:

Phillips head screwdriver
1/2" Hex Nut Driver (1/2” socket)
Nail or small, thin-shaft screwdriver
Stubby handled Phillips head screwdriver (short handle)

Included Parts:

Sierra-2 Ribbon Tweeter, Tweeter Gasket and Tweeter Spacer
Sierra-2 Woofer and Gasket
Sierra-2 Crossover


1 Remove the Tweeter Video Link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-AVEx7P1K0)

a) Gently lay the speaker back so the front of the speaker is facing upward.
b) Using the Phillips head screwdriver, carefully remove the (4) screws from around the perimeter of the tweeter and set them aside.
c) Lean the speaker forward and carefully remove the tweeter and gasket from the cabinet.
d) Gently remove each female wire connector from the tweeter’s male terminals. You will need to gently wiggle the connector to remove it from the terminal. Do not apply too much force or you will risk damaging the tweeter and/or the connector itself.

2 Remove the Woofer Video Link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvefWt0rLA4)

a) Using the Phillips head screwdriver, carefully remove the (4) screws from around the perimeter of the woofer and set them aside.
b) Lean the speaker forward and carefully remove the woofer from the cabinet.
c) Gently remove each female connector from the woofer’s male terminals. You will need to gently wiggle the connector to remove it from the terminal. Do not apply too much force or you will risk damaging the woofer and/or the connector itself.

3 Remove damping material and disconnect the crossover lead wires Video Link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mESvZnXnmgw)

a) Reach inside the cabinet, fold the white Dacron batting material in half and then pull it from the cabinet.
b) Using the 1/2" Hex nut driver, carefully remove the securing nut from each of the two binding posts on the inside of the cabinet and set these aside.
c) Using your fingers, remove the lock washer that is underneath the nut you just removed and set these aside. The crossover lead wires should now be free.
d) Remove the red and black crossover lead wires from the binding post terminals.

4 Remove the old crossover Video Link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0p2v1IlTpVw)

a) Examine the crossover board which is secured on the bottom of the speaker cabinet. Locate the (4) securing screws at each corner of the crossover board.
b) Using the stubby handled Phillips head screwdriver, carefully remove each of the (4) screws and set these aside. Please be careful to avoid damaging any of the crossover components.
c) After all (4) screws have been removed, remove the crossover from the speaker cabinet.

5 Install crossover screws Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Ln6_hPh4q4)

Using the same screws that you removed from the Sierra-1 crossover, insert these into the (4) screw holes in the Sierra-2 crossover.

6 Install Sierra-2 crossover into speaker cabinet Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rk5qOun2oQI)

a) Look inside the speaker cabinet and find the (4) screw hole inserts on the bottom baffle.
b) Place the Sierra-2 crossover inside the cabinet such that each mounting screw is lined up with each corresponding screw insert. Align the crossover such that the two crossover lead wires are in the back of the cabinet and the woofer and tweeter wires are towards the front of the cabinet.
c) Using the stubby handled Phillips head screwdriver, gently tighten down each mounting screw, making sure that each screw is tightening down in the screw insert. The crossover board must not bend so take your time.

7 Attach crossover lead wires to binding posts Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqngb7n0qQ8)

a) Place the crossover lead wires back onto the binding post terminals. Please make sure to keep red to red and black to black.
b) Install the lock washers that were removed in step 3, part c.
c) Install the nuts that were removed in step 3, part c.
d) On the back of the cabinet, locate the binding posts. Unscrew the plastic knob on both the positive and negative terminals.
e) Insert your nail or thin-shaft screwdriver into the hole in the red positive brass terminal and grasp it there for counterforce while you perform the next step.
f) Using the 1/2” Hex nut driver, tighten down from within the cabinet the securing nut of the red positive terminal. This should be tightened so that the binding posts on the back of the speaker are secure and will not twist or turn, and so that the nail or screwdriver lever remains as close to vertical as possible. Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHPKIYmqFu0)
g) Repeat steps e) & f) for the black negative terminal of the binding post.
h) Inspect the holes in the brass terminals of the binding posts to ensure they are vertical. Once satisfied, rescrew the plastic covers of the binding posts.

8 Reinstall the damping material Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bDD6b8XU_M)

a) Grab the woofer and tweeter crossover wires and position them so that they hang outside the speaker cabinet.
b) Fold the damping material in half and place it back into the cabinet.
c) Unfold the damping material such that it now covers the internal walls of the cabinet.

9 Install the new tweeter Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZisCU8p4yY)

IT IS IMPERATIVE TO LEAVE THE PAPER GUARD IN PLACE OVER THE RIBBON DURING THE ENTIRE INSTALLATION PROCESS!!!

a) Grab the red and black crossover wires and insert them through the opening in the shelf brace and then out through the tweeter opening.
b) Gently push the plastic lead covers down the length of the wire exposing the female terminals.
c) Place the tweeter gasket into the tweeter cutout and position it such that all (4) screw holes are aligned.
d) Place the tweeter spacer over the tweeter gasket.
e) As you hold the tweeter with the male terminals facing you and oriented to the bottom of the assembly, you will observe two of the larger male terminals on the tweeter -- you must use the one on the right (This is demonstrated in the video).
f) Using the red and black crossover wires, gently push the female terminals back onto the corresponding male terminals on the new tweeter.
Note: it may be helpful to place a daub of solder on each connection. You may also gently crimp the terminals with pliers. Regardless, you must ensure that the connection is solid before closing up the speaker.
g) Slide the plastic lead covers back over the female terminals.
h) Place the new tweeter back into the speaker cabinet.

10 Install the new woofer Video Link (http://youtu.be/B2VSEzZSKAk)

a) Grab the brown and black crossover wires and pull them outside the speaker cabinet through the woofer opening.
b) Gently push the plastic lead covers down the length of the wire exposing the female terminals.
c) Place the included gasket in the cutout with the holes in the gasket aligned with the screw holes.
d) Using the brown and black wires, gently push the female terminals back onto the corresponding male terminals on the woofer. Note: it may be helpful to place a daub of solder on each connection. 0You may also gently crimp the terminals with pliers. Regardless, you must ensure that the connection is solid before closing up the speaker.
e) Slide the plastic lead covers back over the female terminals.
f) Place the woofer into the speaker cabinet ensuring the screw holes are aligned.

11 Insert the woofer and tweeter securing screws Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bWvts-pep4)

a) Using your hands, manipulate the positioning of the woofer and tweeter such that the screw holes in each component align with the screw holes in the loudspeaker cabinet.
b) Insert the (4) woofer mounting screws and (4) tweeter mounting screws. Note, these use the same screws. Hand tighten each screw.

12 Tighten all screws Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kA1YFyFtAno)

a) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, securely tighten down all (8) screws. Do not over tighten!
b) It is now time to remove the paper guard from the ribbon tweeter.

IT IS IMPERATIVE TO GENTLY AND SLOWLY SLIDE THE PAPER GUARD IN THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROW, NOT PULL IT OFF!!!

Failure to follow this instruction can damage the extremely sensitive and thin ribbon.

Congratulations, you are finished!

[Dark Ranger]

Outstanding!! Thank you James & Joe! You guys rock! :D

I will watch all of these later tonight when I have more time.

[rkoaudio]

Sierra-2 Upgrade Instructions

....

12 Tighten all screws Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kA1YFyFtAno)

a) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, securely tighten down all (8) screws. Do not over tighten!
b) It is now time to remove the paper guard from the ribbon tweeter.

IT IS IMPERATIVE TO GENTLY AND SLOWLY SLIDE THE PAPER GUARD IN THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROW, NOT PULL IT OFF!!!

Failure to follow this instruction can damage the extremely sensitive and thin ribbon.

Congratulations, you are finished!

What should be a torque to tighten all 8 screws?

[jamesg]

What should be a torque to tighten all 8 screws?

Hi rkoaudio, since there is no universal standard for power drill torque, I can't give you an exact setting. It simply depends on the drill. The amount of torque you should use should be sufficient to completely tighten the screws without allowing the screw to spin in the pilot hole. I suggest you start off with minimum torque and then gradually increase the torque until the screw is almost entirely flush, then finish tightening by hand only, no power.

[Mag_Neato]

Thanks for the video tutorials, James & Joe!

I was wondering if the upgrade kits included new gaskets. That answers that.

Are the kits shipping out this week? Can't wait to hear the reports of their performance compared to the Standard & NrT Sierra's!

[pj-]

If the ribbon is that fragile, is it recommended to keep the speaker grilles on? I'm not talking about careless finger pokes, but if I walk by and my shirt grazes the thing, could it get damaged?

[jamesg]

Thanks for the video tutorials, James & Joe!

Are the kits shipping out this week? Can't wait to hear the reports of their performance compared to the Standard & NrT Sierra's!

Hi Ed, the fully-assembled Sierra-2s are shipping starting tomorrow December 17th! The Sierra-2 upgrade kits will begin shipping on Wednesday December 18th.

[jamesg]

If the ribbon is that fragile, is it recommended to keep the speaker grilles on? I'm not talking about careless finger pokes, but if I walk by and my shirt grazes the thing, could it get damaged?

Hi pj, while the ribbon itself is delicate, it is protected behind a metal mesh screen and cannot be directly contacted. The danger to the ribbon is in being affected by a vacuum as the protective paper cover is removed. If the paper cover is simply pulled off, the force of the vacuum has been shown to potentially damage the ribbon. If one is careful to slide the paper cover off, then there is no risk to the ribbon. Once the cover is slid off the tweeter, you can choose to keep the grilles on or off.

[Mag_Neato]

Hi pj, while the ribbon itself is delicate, it is protected behind a metal mesh screen and cannot be directly contacted. The danger to the ribbon is in being affected by a vacuum as the protective paper cover is removed. If the paper cover is simply pulled off, the force of the vacuum has been shown to potentially damage the ribbon. If one is careful to slide the paper cover off, then there is no risk to the ribbon. Once the cover is slid off the tweeter, you can choose to keep the grilles on or off.

Good to know, James. Maybe an extra video showing the paper cover being correctly removed would be a good idea?

[Dark Ranger]

Hi Ed, the fully-assembled Sierra-2s are shipping starting tomorrow December 17th! The Sierra-2 upgrade kits will begin shipping on Wednesday December 18th.

Woohoo! I can't wait. :)


Good to know, James. Maybe an extra video showing the paper cover being correctly removed would be a good idea?

My Sierra Horizon had this same paper cover over the RAAL 70-20XR when I received it back in April 2012. I just pulled off the paper cover slowly in the direction of the arrow.

The idea is to avoid lifting it straight up in a way that could create a vacuum. So for example, if the loudspeaker is laying on its back and the tweeter is facing straight up, you wouldn't want to lift it straight upwards (12 o'clock), but rather you'd slide it off at a 90 degree angle (9 o'clock or 3 o'clock).

In other words, slide it off in the direction of the arrow. :)

[JustABrah]

So for the center channel you'd have the arrow facing towards the ground right? Do you need to do something similar for the woofer?

[Dark Ranger]

So for the center channel you'd have the arrow facing towards the ground right? Do you need to do something similar for the woofer?

It doesn't matter how the speaker is oriented--right-side up, on its back, laying on its side--just slide off the paper strip slowly in the direction of the arrow. I can't find a way to explain it any better.

The woofer doesn't require this precaution.

Tell you what, I'll post a short video of how to remove the paper strip when I get my upgrade kits (assuming Ascend doesn't eventually add one due to popular request). :) My kits were pre-ordered only a few hours after Dave posted the pre-order link, so I should be in the first shipment.

[JustABrah]

It doesn't matter how the speaker is oriented--right-side up, on its back, laying on its side--just slide off the paper strip slowly in the direction of the arrow. I can't find a way to explain it any better.

The woofer doesn't require this precaution.

Tell you what, I'll post a short video of how to remove the paper strip when I get my upgrade kits (assuming Ascend doesn't eventually add one due to popular request). :) My kits were pre-ordered only a few hours after Dave posted the pre-order link, so I should be in the first shipment.

No I'm not talking about taking the paper off, my center is on its side so the tweeter needs to be flipped just making sure that in that setup the arrow on the tweeter should be facing the floor or if it matters.

[FirstReflect]

No I'm not talking about taking the paper off, my center is on its side so the tweeter needs to be flipped just making sure that in that setup the arrow on the tweeter should be facing the floor or if it matters.

Yes, arrow facing the floor is always correct. You want the tweeter to be vertical, always. So, if it's the Center speaker version, and the cabinet is rotated 90 degrees, you need to rotate the tweeter 90 degrees within the cabinet so that the tweeter is still vertical :)

[billy p]

Hah...for the sake of a 100 bucks I'd sooner send them back and let Ascend handle the changes. Those videos were nice but you can see those dudes could do that switch blindfolded...:D

[Dark Ranger]

I guess it comes down to personal comfort, skill, and patience. One nice thing about sending the speaker in for the upgrade is that they will be matched, tested, and shipped back with a renewed warranty. That would be a great incentive for some.

Last night I finally had a chance to watch all the videos. It's a straight-forward upgrade. My biggest piece of advice is to take your time. I know we want to listen to them ASAP, but this component swap happens only once. Make sure it's right, take your time, and try to enjoy the process. I love doing stuff like this anyway, so that makes it even better.

I'm definitely looking forward to upgrading my pair!

[Mag_Neato]

The upgrade process is not a big deal, especially if you have the later(Not 1st gen. Sierra-1) cabinets. The 1st gen cabinets have different crossover mounting hole locations and you must use self-tapping wood screws to mount the new crossover board. Also the 1st gen cabinets used fiberglass insulation encased in black mesh netting.

[eliwankenobi]

I guess it comes down to personal comfort, skill, and patience. One nice thing about sending the speaker in for the upgrade is that they will be matched, tested, and shipped back with a renewed warranty. That would be a great incentive for some.

Last night I finally had a chance to watch all the videos. It's a straight-forward upgrade. My biggest piece of advice is to take your time. I know we want to listen to them ASAP, but this component swap happens only once. Make sure it's right, take your time, and try to enjoy the process. I love doing stuff like this anyway, so that makes it even better.

I'm definitely looking forward to upgrading my pair!

Do you guys see any reason why technically it would be better to send the pair for the upgrade to be done at Ascend other than peace of mind?

I assume that if we get kit to do the upgrade ourselves, the crossovers have to be somehow tested against some reference so that under the same conditions, a factory upgraded pair would not sound any better than a home based pair, right?

I asked Dave if there is an additional cost other than shipping for sending the pair to factory for upgrade. Still haven't had any response, but they should be super busy filling out orders for the Sierra-2 and the upgrade kits, etc. Its understandable... In another note, its amazing how they are so successful without doing any kind of marketing whatsoever!

[rkoaudio]

Do you guys see any reason why technically it would be better to send the pair for the upgrade to be done at Ascend other than peace of mind?

I assume that if we get kit to do the upgrade ourselves, the crossovers have to be somehow tested against some reference so that under the same conditions, a factory upgraded pair would not sound any better than a home based pair, right?

I asked Dave if there is an additional cost other than shipping for sending the pair to factory for upgrade. Still haven't had any response, but they should be super busy filling out orders for the Sierra-2 and the upgrade kits, etc. Its understandable... In another note, its amazing how they are so successful without doing any kind of marketing whatsoever!

All parts need to be tested by the manufacturer prior to shipment. Otherwise it could be quite expensive if problems are found by the end customer (Ascend). I assume, Ascend also does limited retesting just to make sure dead part is not installed into cabinet. Again, it would be quite expensive to swap parts if end testing shows problem
(assembly cost).

As far as matching goes. All parts need to follow one of the sigma processes. This guaranties, that after assembly, speaker will have all parameters within a spec.
There should be no difference if kit is installed by Ascend or customer.

The only reason to send speaker to Ascend would be if individual doesn't feel comfortable doing it himself. Different people have different skills and comfort level. Not to mention if someone accidental pokes a hole in the woofer with a screwdriver ... well it will not be covered by Ascend warranty.

Keep in mind that Ascend assembles a lot of speakers a day. This is why end testing is necessary - it just helps making sure no step was accidentally skipped or done incorrectly (swapped terminals etc)

If you install your own kit, there is no rush. You can double and triple check all steps. Something that would be counterproductive in the industrial environment is perfectly fine for DIY.

[Dark Ranger]

Do you guys see any reason why technically it would be better to send the pair for the upgrade to be done at Ascend other than peace of mind?

Along with what rkoaudio said regarding comfort level and skill, one nice thing about letting Ascend do the upgrade is that your 7-year warranty is renewed. Plus, you can get printed measurements of the speaker's frequency response.

The components themselves are built within tight tolerances. IMO, there should be no audible differences between a DIY Sierra-2 pair and a factory-assembled Sierra-2 pair. Dave's been down this road before with the NrT upgrade. :)

[rkoaudio]

Along with what rkoaudio said regarding comfort level and skill, one nice thing about letting Ascend do the upgrade is that your 7-year warranty is renewed. Plus, you can get printed measurements of the speaker's frequency response.



My assumption was that warranty would restart regardless if it was done by Ascend or as DIY?

[jamesg]

Woohoo! I can't wait. :)



My Sierra Horizon had this same paper cover over the RAAL 70-20XR when I received it back in April 2012. I just pulled off the paper cover slowly in the direction of the arrow.

The idea is to avoid lifting it straight up in a way that could create a vacuum. So for example, if the loudspeaker is laying on its back and the tweeter is facing straight up, you wouldn't want to lift it straight upwards (12 o'clock), but rather you'd slide it off at a 90 degree angle (9 o'clock or 3 o'clock).

In other words, slide it off in the direction of the arrow. :)

Thanks for helping explain Dark Ranger, I couldn't have said it better.

[kinggimp82]

Does anyone know how much it costs to upgrade a standard Sierra-1 to the Sierra-2?

[Dark Ranger]

Does anyone know how much it costs to upgrade a standard Sierra-1 to the Sierra-2?

Are you talking about DIY upgrade kits or something like a complete trade-in?

Upgrade kits are $388 each (one kit per speaker). An upgrade kit contains a woofer, a tweeter, and a crossover.

For original/standard Sierra-1s, you'll also get a $31 refund (per speaker) for sending back the old parts (woofer + tweeter + crossover).

See this post (http://forum.ascendacoustics.com/showthread.php?4978-Sierra-2-Development-Thread&p=46027#post46027) from Dave for more details. The PDF document covers all the pricing and finish options.

[Dark Ranger]

My assumption was that warranty would restart regardless if it was done by Ascend or as DIY?

The DIY approach relies on the customer's skill and expertise to perform the upgrade. It's a straightforward process, but mistakes could still happen. Quite simply, Ascend cannot ensure the final product is "perfect" even with pre-testing the individual parts.

In contrast, sending the entire speaker to Ascend ensures that each component is installed correctly. The speaker can be fully tested to verify performance. The recertified speakers are then shipped to the customer and are essentially like buying a brand new product.

I would be very surprised if this time was different. Previous upgrades like Sierra-1 standard to NrT worked the same way, as well as the Classic to SE upgrades. Actually, if memory serves, the SE upgrade virtually required the customer to send back the speakers. I think a few folks may have done the upgrade themselves, but most were done at the Ascend factory.

[eliwankenobi]

The DIY approach relies on the customer's skill and expertise to perform the upgrade. It's a straightforward process, but mistakes could still happen. Quite simply, Ascend cannot ensure the final product is "perfect" even with pre-testing the individual parts.

In contrast, sending the entire speaker to Ascend ensures that each component is installed correctly. The speaker can be fully tested to verify performance. The recertified speakers are then shipped to the customer and are essentially like buying a brand new product.

I would be very surprised if this time was different. Previous upgrades like Sierra-1 standard to NrT worked the same way, as well as the Classic to SE upgrades. Actually, if memory serves, the SE upgrade virtually required the customer to send back the speakers. I think a few folks may have done the upgrade themselves, but most were done at the Ascend factory.

Do you know if there was a labor cost in addition to the cost of shipping and the upgrade kits themselves?

[Mag_Neato]

Anyone get their shipping tracking info yet?

[davef]

To answer a few questions


My assumption was that warranty would restart regardless if it was done by Ascend or as DIY?

If we do the upgrade for you, your warranty on the speakers will reset. We also include an appropriate "Sierra-2" serial number on the speakers, since we will be able to test and re-certify the speakers. If taking DIY approach, you will receive a Sierra-2 product label but we will not include a new serial number since we can not re-certify the speakers. For the DIY upgrade kit, the warranty on the speakers will not reset and the components will be covered for manufacturing defects only.


Do you know if there was a labor cost in addition to the cost of shipping and the upgrade kits themselves?

We would normally charge a $55 labor charge on top of the upgrade kit costs and shipping for those customers who would like us to handle the upgrade. We are going to temporarily waive the labor charge so the only additional costs for having us do the upgrade will be shipping (both ways) and new packaging material, if necessary.

Hope this makes sense.

[eliwankenobi]

To answer a few questions



If we do the upgrade for you, your warranty on the speakers will reset. We also include an appropriate "Sierra-2" serial number on the speakers, since we will be able to test and re-certify the speakers. If taking DIY approach, you will receive a Sierra-2 product label but we will not include a new serial number since we can not re-certify the speakers. For the DIY upgrade kit, the warranty on the speakers will not reset and the components will be covered for manufacturing defects only.



We would normally charge a $55 labor charge on top of the upgrade kit costs and shipping for those customers who would like us to handle the upgrade. We are going to temporarily waive the labor charge so the only additional costs for having us do the upgrade will be shipping (both ways) and new packaging material, if necessary.

Hope this makes sense.

Thanks Dave

waiving the $55 fee sounds tempting for sure. I will need to check shipping costs and see if it makes sense on my part to do so.

[Mag_Neato]

The shipping adds to the cost, for sure, but having Ascend handle the upgrade also adds more waiting time to actually listening to and enjoying the Sierra-2! For me it would be a no-brainer since I enjoy doing the work myself. You get to "know" the speaker more intimately after the operation!

[rkoaudio]

To answer a few questions

If we do the upgrade for you, your warranty on the speakers will reset. We also include an appropriate "Sierra-2" serial number on the speakers, since we will be able to test and re-certify the speakers. If taking DIY approach, you will receive a Sierra-2 product label but we will not include a new serial number since we can not re-certify the speakers. For the DIY upgrade kit, the warranty on the speakers will not reset and the components will be covered for manufacturing defects only.

Hope this makes sense.

I guess I should have been more clear about my interpretation of the warranty reset.
What I was assuming, was a warranty on the new parts. Obviously, you cannot be responsible for mishandling, incorrect installation etc. by DIY person.

But I guess your interpretation of the warranty is important, so nobody gets wrong ideas later on.

[jamesg]

Good to know, James. Maybe an extra video showing the paper cover being correctly removed would be a good idea?

Very good idea, and I am working on it as we speak....

[jamesg]

So for the center channel you'd have the arrow facing towards the ground right? Do you need to do something similar for the woofer?

Yes, that is correct. The tweeter must always be oriented "vertically," that is, with the ribbon running long-ways from top to bottom. This is true whether a main or center. The woofer has no orientation, it is omnidirectional.

[Mag_Neato]

Hi everyone,
I just wanted to post a piece of information which could help some of those who wish to perform the upgrade on the 1st generation Sierra-1 cabinets.

First of all, yes, I did the Sierra-2 upgrade to my already NrT-upgraded Sierra-1's. Christmas was better than planned!

Having done the NrT upgrade to my 1st gen cabinets, the issue of the different crossover board mounting hole pattern had already been addressed. Also, I had replaced the original fiberglass in black mesh netting bags with Dacron material as in the videos.

The issue I had this time was that the woofer recess cutout in the baffle was too small for the new woofer's mounting flange diameter.....by a pretty good margin(1-2mm). After speaking with Dina on the phone she suggested sanding the surface to open it up. The final option would be to send the speakers to Ascend and have them do it as they could address that issue. I was already in the DIY state of mind so there was no way I was going to let this stop me!

After sanding and sanding and sanding, the woofer still would not fit. The opening had actually become truncated, or chamfered, from the top down to the flange mounting surface, so while the woofer flange fit into the opening near the top, it did not fit as the inside diameter became smaller towards the bottom. I had a drill-powered flapping wheel on hand, which is a wheel made up of strips of sandpaper bonded to a center hub. I tried to straighten the sides with this but it did not prove very effective. I ended up using a utility knife and applying a score-and-carve method around the diameter where the side meets the mounting surface. I was able to open up the base of the cutout enough o allow the new woofer to fit.

This was very time consuming and resulted in several scuffs/scratches in the cabinet finish. At this point I was a little aggravated. I would suggest anyone with the early cabinets who are thinking of the upgrade to consider their woodworking skill level and comfort level of modifying these cabinets before deciding whether to do it themselves or having Ascend do it.

Other than that, the -2's sound absolutely amazing!!

[pj-]

Hi everyone,
I just wanted to post a piece of information which could help some of those who wish to perform the upgrade on the 1st generation Sierra-1 cabinets.

First of all, yes, I did the Sierra-2 upgrade to my already NrT-upgraded Sierra-1's. Christmas was better than planned!

Having done the NrT upgrade to my 1st gen cabinets, the issue of the different crossover board mounting hole pattern had already been addressed. Also, I had replaced the original fiberglass in black mesh netting bags with Dacron material as in the videos.

The issue I had this time was that the woofer recess cutout in the baffle was too small for the new woofer's mounting flange diameter.....by a pretty good margin(1-2mm). After speaking with Dina on the phone she suggested sanding the surface to open it up. The final option would be to send the speakers to Ascend and have them do it as they could address that issue. I was already in the DIY state of mind so there was no way I was going to let this stop me!

After sanding and sanding and sanding, the woofer still would not fit. The opening had actually become truncated, or chamfered, from the top down to the flange mounting surface, so while the woofer flange fit into the opening near the top, it did not fit as the inside diameter became smaller towards the bottom. I had a drill-powered flapping wheel on hand, which is a wheel made up of strips of sandpaper bonded to a center hub. I tried to straighten the sides with this but it did not prove very effective. I ended up using a utility knife and applying a score-and-carve method around the diameter where the side meets the mounting surface. I was able to open up the base of the cutout enough o allow the new woofer to fit.

This was very time consuming and resulted in several scuffs/scratches in the cabinet finish. At this point I was a little aggravated. I would suggest anyone with the early cabinets who are thinking of the upgrade to consider their woodworking skill level and comfort level of modifying these cabinets before deciding whether to do it themselves or having Ascend do it.

Other than that, the -2's sound absolutely amazing!!

This is a bit worrying.

I have Sierra 1's that were part of the first batch of Espresso cabinets. Has anyone else upgrading from older Sierras had this problem?

[curtis]

This is a bit worrying.

I have Sierra 1's that were part of the first batch of Espresso cabinets. Has anyone else upgrading from older Sierras had this problem?
Expresso cabinets came long after the first generation of cabinets.

When the Sierra-1 was first available (late 2006/early 2007), the only cabinet choices were piano black and natural.

[pj-]

Expresso cabinets came long after the first generation of cabinets.

When the Sierra-1 was first available (late 2006/early 2007), the only cabinet choices were piano black and natural.

Oh ok. I was aware of the cabinet timeline, but wasn't sure how the "generations" were defined.

[rkoaudio]

Hi everyone,

After sanding and sanding and sanding, the woofer still would not fit. The opening had actually become truncated, or chamfered, from the top down to the flange mounting surface, so while the woofer flange fit into the opening near the top, it did not fit as the inside diameter became smaller towards the bottom. I had a drill-powered flapping wheel on hand, which is a wheel made up of strips of sandpaper bonded to a center hub. I tried to straighten the sides with this but it did not prove very effective. I ended up using a utility knife and applying a score-and-carve method around the diameter where the side meets the mounting surface. I was able to open up the base of the cutout enough o allow the new woofer to fit.



Have you considered using router with appropriate bit? It looks like a prefect candidate for such a job. Manual sanding is just too difficult to control, unless you are doing it on the regular basis.

[Mag_Neato]

Not investing in a router and bit to use once. If I had one then it would have made a difference for sure. Like I said, if you feel up to it and have the right tools then definitely go for the upgrade. They sound incredible!

[eliwankenobi]

Hello!

I hope DaveF or somebody from Ascend can answer this.

Is there a specific torque specification for tightening the screws?

I see in the video that the screws are tightened with a torque screw driver and also have one and would like what would be the specific in-lb setting so as to get them as close to factory as possible..

Thanks

[Mag_Neato]

Hello!

I hope DaveF or somebody from Ascend can answer this.

Is there a specific torque specification for tightening the screws?

I see in the video that the screws are tightened with a torque screw driver and also have one and would like what would be the specific in-lb setting so as to get them as close to factory as possible..

Thanks


I don't think they actually have a set torque rating for this. It is more of a "feel" type of thing. Hand-tightened until it is snug enough that you would have to apply significant force to tighten further. If you use a drill/driver with an adjustable torque dial I'd use maybe a -2 or -3 setting and let it drive the screws in until it clicks for a few seconds.

[davef]

Hello!

I hope DaveF or somebody from Ascend can answer this.

Is there a specific torque specification for tightening the screws?

I see in the video that the screws are tightened with a torque screw driver and also have one and would like what would be the specific in-lb setting so as to get them as close to factory as possible..

Thanks

Mag is correct,

It really comes down to a feel as torque settings from one driver to another vary considerably. Use a low torque setting and then tighten by hand. the bamboo is much tougher than MDF, more than likely you will break a head off a screw before you over tighten and ruin the screw threads in the bamboo.

[eliwankenobi]

Mag is correct,

It really comes down to a feel as torque settings from one driver to another vary considerably. Use a low torque setting and then tighten by hand. the bamboo is much tougher than MDF, more than likely you will break a head off a screw before you over tighten and ruin the screw threads in the bamboo.

Thank you Dave for confirming that!

I am a little more than impressed with that comment. I know rhe bamboo in the speakers is strong, but never thought it would be THAT strong... Takes a worry off my mind.. Thanks again

[donrim]

The issue I had this time was that the woofer recess cutout in the baffle was too small for the new woofer's mounting flange diameter.....by a pretty good margin(1-2mm). After speaking with Dina on the phone she suggested sanding the surface to open it up. The final option would be to send the speakers to Ascend and have them do it as they could address that issue.

I am interested in the upgrade for my three Sierra 1's. However, I am concerned about the woofer fit if I choose to do the upgrade myself. How would I know if the fit could be a concern? I measured the cabinet openings at 156 to 157.5 mm in diameter. What is the woofer mounting flange outer diameter? My Sierra 1's were shipped May 6, 2008.

[davef]

I am interested in the upgrade for my three Sierra 1's. However, I am concerned about the woofer fit if I choose to do the upgrade myself. How would I know if the fit could be a concern? I measured the cabinet openings at 156 to 157.5 mm in diameter. What is the woofer mounting flange outer diameter? My Sierra 1's were shipped May 6, 2008.

This is only a possible issue with first generation Sierra-1 cabinets, of which your's are not. Woofer frame OD is 156mm.

[merrymaid520]

Oh boy, just read through this thread. I have the original Sierra cabinets and my upgrade kits are shipping soon. Will things fit without sanding/modification???

[Mag_Neato]

Oh boy, just read through this thread. I have the original Sierra cabinets and my upgrade kits are shipping soon. Will things fit without sanding/modification???

If they are for sure from the first batch of cabinets and you have not done the NrT upgrade then you will definitely have to use self threading wood screws to mount the new crossover as the hole pattern is different. I would also anticipate the woofer flange issue. You can remove the original woofer and measure the I.D. Of the cutout to be sure. If it is 156mm or less you will have an issue.

[merrymaid520]

If they are for sure from the first batch of cabinets and you have not done the NrT upgrade then you will definitely have to use self threading wood screws to mount the new crossover as the hole pattern is different. I would also anticipate the woofer flange issue. You can remove the original woofer and measure the I.D. Of the cutout to be sure. If it is 156mm or less you will have an issue.

I'm not worried about the XO but the woofer issue might pose a problem:(

[davef]

I'm not worried about the XO but the woofer issue might pose a problem:(

Worst case, you might have to shave the woofer opening just a bit. You have woodworking skills -- this will be a cinch for you compared to what you have done in the past ;)

[merrymaid520]

Worst case, you might have to shave the woofer opening just a bit. You have woodworking skills -- this will be a cinch for you compared to what you have done in the past ;)

Gotcha, last time around I had assistance (father in law). I'm guessing its nothing a little Dremel can't handle!

[Mag_Neato]

Gotcha, last time around I had assistance (father in law). I'm guessing its nothing a little Dremel can't handle!

I should have used a Dremel, but one was not handy and my impatience won out. I tried a piece of sandpaper at first but was not making much progress, so I put a flapping wheel in my drill and went to town. That made the opening tapered from the top to bottom so the woofer fit at first, but the opening closed up quickly towards the bottom and I could not get it opened up. I ended up with some scratches and scuffs on the front of the cabinet. I ended up using a utility knife (box cutter) and carving the inside diameter of the opening until the woofer dropped in. Once I'd started the upgrade process I was determined to complete it without stopping! I think the results make up for the slight cosmetic damage I did.

[petmotel]

It never hurts to use painters tape to cover a surface while working on something close to that surface. Just a thought, might save it from scratches.

Jay

[eliwankenobi]

Gotcha, last time around I had assistance (father in law). I'm guessing its nothing a little Dremel can't handle!

You can do it!!

[merrymaid520]

You can do it!!

Thanks Guys, I have no doubt it will go just fine:)

[Blue Dude]

I have a set of three (LCR) early Sierra-1's, with the original drivers and crossovers. Is there a way to tell from the serial numbers if they can be upgraded without modifying the cabinets?

[Mag_Neato]

I have a set of three (LCR) early Sierra-1's, with the original drivers and crossovers. Is there a way to tell from the serial numbers if they can be upgraded without modifying the cabinets?

Remove the woofer and measure the opening in the cabinet. The new woofer's mounting flange has an O.D. of 156mm. If the opening is exactly that or less, you will have to open it up. The other mod is much simpler involving the crossover. If the mounting holes are different you will need some self tapping wood screws.

[Blue Dude]

Remove the woofer and measure the opening in the cabinet. The new woofer's mounting flange has an O.D. of 156mm. If the opening is exactly that or less, you will have to open it up. The other mod is much simpler involving the crossover. If the mounting holes are different you will need some self tapping wood screws.

Well, the OD of the flange is almost exactly 156mm, maybe a hair smaller. The ID of the hole in the cabinet is 130mm. This is an early set with serial numbers around 230. It sounds like it may need some widening and while I'm reasonably handy I'm not convinced I'm up for that.

[Mag_Neato]

Lets make sure we are on the same page.

There is one(1) O(utside) D(iameter), that being the outer edge of the mounting flange of the cast woofer basket, which has 4 screw holes equally spaced around it. This fits into the I(nside) D(iameter) of the woofer cutout in the face of the cabinet, which then rests on the woofer mounting surface which is about 1/4" down. Those are the only 2 diameters to worry about.

I've attached a sketch to clarify!

1073

[davef]

Well, the OD of the flange is almost exactly 156mm, maybe a hair smaller. The ID of the hole in the cabinet is 130mm. This is an early set with serial numbers around 230. It sounds like it may need some widening and while I'm reasonably handy I'm not convinced I'm up for that.

The easiest way is to simply remove one of the woofers and take a look inside the cabinet. If the damping material inside the cabinet is white, you have second gen cabinets. Even if you have first gen cabinets, it is not guaranteed that the woofer cutout will need to be shaved a bit as the tolerances from this original cabinet vendor were a bit off, which was one of the main reasons we went to a different cabinet maker.

[Blue Dude]

Hi Dave. Thanks for the reply; I just discovered it. Alas, I have the black bag damping material so I have to assume that it's a first generation cabinet. I'd be a lot more comfortable having any mods done at the factory since it appears likely that some cabinet modification may be needed. I'll probably have to put this on the back burner for a while, not just for cost, but for turnaround time on the speakers. BTW, what would the turnaround time be for upgrading a 1st gen Sierra-1 LCR set to Sierra-2? Maybe I can discover some funds and coincide the mod when I'm away from home...

[davef]

Hi Dave. Thanks for the reply; I just discovered it. Alas, I have the black bag damping material so I have to assume that it's a first generation cabinet. I'd be a lot more comfortable having any mods done at the factory since it appears likely that some cabinet modification may be needed. I'll probably have to put this on the back burner for a while, not just for cost, but for turnaround time on the speakers. BTW, what would the turnaround time be for upgrading a 1st gen Sierra-1 LCR set to Sierra-2? Maybe I can discover some funds and coincide the mod when I'm away from home...

You might still be OK doing the mod yourself. That said, I would estimate our turn around time at about 1 week right now.

[pegleg]

I recently got my Sierra-1 upgraded by Ascend to Sierra-2. I'm a senior and don't have the manual control I'd need to do it myself. I was surprised to see these paper (magnetic?) covers for the ribbons.

Unfortunately, the print was so tiny, and partially rubbed out, that it wasn't at all clear what to do in removing them. I think I got them off, but then realized I needed to re-attach them to move the speakers up to the top of my entertainment unit. So what I'm not sure of is whether I slid the arrows on pointing the right way--or even if there is a right way. Did I mess up? Is there a right direction in future, when I move (about 3 years from now)?

I'm pretty sure I mostly slid the papers off, but I might have partially pulled up, after moving them part way down across the ribbon. I just was afraid that I was going to stick them into the gap by mistake.

Thanks,
Pegleg

[Mag_Neato]

Pegleg,
You are fine. The only thing to be careful of is not to pull straight up from the tweeter to avoid a possible vacuum bubble pulling up on the ribbon element which could potentially bend or tear it. Since you had already slid the paper down exposing the ribbon there should not have been any vacuum to worry about. Hope that makes sense!

[pegleg]

Thanks, Mag_Neato. One question I do have: once the paper is removed, I got the impression I should use these if I ever move the speakers (not across the room, but a long move). But since the vacuum no longer exists, would they (papers) just be used to protect the ribbons?
Thanks,
Pegleg

[Mag_Neato]

The vacuum is an effect from lifting the magnetic paper up rather than sliding it off and has the potential of forming if the cover is placed back on the tweeter. Reusing the covers for moving the speakers is fine and is not a bad idea at all.

[davef]

Thanks, Mag_Neato. One question I do have: once the paper is removed, I got the impression I should use these if I ever move the speakers (not across the room, but a long move). But since the vacuum no longer exists, would they (papers) just be used to protect the ribbons?
Thanks,
Pegleg

The magnetic board is there to protect the ribbon during carrier transportation (shipping). You do not need to use these for simply moving the speakers around your home.

[tortilladc]

I just installed the upgrade kit. It's a very easy job UNLESS for some inexplicable reason you have one cabinet that accepts the new woofer and another that doesn't, like me. I ended up borrowing a dremel with a barrel sanding attachment and enlarged the opening. Having never used a dremel, I added quite a bit of cosmetic damage in the process. Using the dremel also produces a ton of sawdust which you'd normally want to vacuum out if it weren't for the ribbon being so close by.

So I'd say whatever money I saved on shipping/labor just went out the door with the cosmetic damage I did to one of the cabinets, with no warranty reset. My advice, folks, is if one of the woofers doesn't fit, STOP, and send them in.

FWIW my sierra-1's are gloss espresso from October 2011.

[Mag_Neato]

Sorry to hear that. I feel your pain. I added some scuff marks around the woofer openings on my natural cabinets. Not overly noticeable but it was aggravating when it happened. I just recently put the grilles on, having spent the majority of the last 7 years in the shipping box. Can't see the scuffs now!
As for sanding: before starting that procedure it is advisable to remove the tweeter, crossover and insulation. Vacuum/wipe the cabinets when the operation is finished.

[davef]

Guys -- if you are having any difficulties installing the S2 upgrade kit, please call us before taking the next step. We perform these upgrades nearly every day so we can offer many recommendations :)

[brasewel]

I'm seriously contemplating getting the upgrade kit. I bought my Sierra-1s used from someone else with the NRT upgrade. I'm hoping I don't have to make any modifications. I have the Piano black so would hate to scuff it up.
Do you guys take back the old tweeters, crossover and drivers?

[davef]

I'm seriously contemplating getting the upgrade kit. I bought my Sierra-1s used from someone else with the NRT upgrade. I'm hoping I don't have to make any modifications. I have the Piano black so would hate to scuff it up.
Do you guys take back the old tweeters, crossover and drivers?

Yes -- we still do take back the old parts for some credit. However, this program will expire soon.

See the attached document for pricing info.

[eliwankenobi]

I'm seriously contemplating getting the upgrade kit. I bought my Sierra-1s used from someone else with the NRT upgrade. I'm hoping I don't have to make any modifications. I have the Piano black so would hate to scuff it up.
Do you guys take back the old tweeters, crossover and drivers?

Hey!

I did just the same thing! My NrTs were bought used, and I then bought the upgrade kit. It's easy to install and totally worth it

1103

[RandomName]

Yes -- we still do take back the old parts for some credit. However, this program will expire soon.

See the attached document for pricing info.

Noticed the pricing has gone up since this was posted. Does this mean the old parts credit is no longer valid as well? Was contemplating upgrading my NrTs soon.

[davef]

Noticed the pricing has gone up since this was posted. Does this mean the old parts credit is no longer valid as well? Was contemplating upgrading my NrTs soon.

We are presently still taking back the old parts.

[muzz]

This just sounds so sexy....lol
I have the older Sierra1 cabinets myself, I know cuz I've been in there, and saw the black mesh.....don't ask why, it's a secret....to everyone but my neighbors...and my bloodied nephew! ;)
I don't foresee an issue if I do this though, I have tools and some skillz.

Still lovin' my Original Sierras though, just busted them out after a 2 year hiatus, and they sound fabulous, so this will have to wait!

[Quinn]

Sorry to hear that. I feel your pain. I added some scuff marks around the woofer openings on my natural cabinets. Not overly noticeable but it was aggravating when it happened. I just recently put the grilles on, having spent the majority of the last 7 years in the shipping box. Can't see the scuffs now!
As for sanding: before starting that procedure it is advisable to remove the tweeter, crossover and insulation. Vacuum/wipe the cabinets when the operation is finished.

How did you expand the hole? I'm just getting back to this project after have the parts here for a few months and need about 1/16" more woofer reveal. Would blue painter's tape mask off well enough for me to use my Dremel or should I pay a woodworker to router it out?

[Mag_Neato]

How did you expand the hole? I'm just getting back to this project after have the parts here for a few months and need about 1/16" more woofer reveal. Would blue painter's tape mask off well enough for me to use my Dremel or should I pay a woodworker to router it out?

I started with some sandpaper by hand, then switched to one of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Proxxon-1-3-16-in-120-Grit-Flap-Wheel-28985/203459839

The wheel actually created a taper of the opening so the woofer flange fit in the top of the opening but not all the way down. I ended up carving out the remainder with a utility knife. Not the best way to do it but I was impatient and aggravated so nothing was going to stop me. The wheel was the culprit for the scuffs, or maybe it was my inability to control it!

I used a hand drill, but if you have a drill press you could simply set the depth and move the cabinet around the wheel. Should be able to control the motion better that way.

Edit: The wheel I linked to is similar to the one I meant to reference, which is used with a rotary drill.

[debo]

I used a Dremel with the sandpaper disk, worked really great. I just followed around the woofer opening without much pressure and it only took a few minutes per cabinet.

[Mag_Neato]

There you go! I do not own a Dremel(Darn pricey little attachments), but if you have one already it sounds like a no brainer.

Jeff, I just realized I brought my -2's over your place in October. Sheesh....time flies!

[jameswang]

Fantastic, thank you for sharing that.

[andrey]

Hi Ed, the fully-assembled Sierra-2s are shipping starting tomorrow December 17th! The Sierra-2 upgrade kits will begin shipping on Wednesday December 18th.

The image of Sierra-2 that's on http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/SRM2/srm2.html seem to be already with RAAL, if so, what is the [Sierra-2 upgrade kit] for?

[Mag_Neato]

The image of Sierra-2 that's on http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/SRM2/srm2.html seem to be already with RAAL, if so, what is the [Sierra-2 upgrade kit] for?

For those who wish to upgrade their Sierra-1's or NrT Sierras to -2's

[andrey]

For those who wish to upgrade their Sierra-1's or NrT Sierras to -2's

It's confusing, really, if it's an upgrade for sierra-1, then it should be on sierra-1 page, not sierra-2..

[Mag_Neato]

I can appreciate your confusion as someone who just discovers these products, and has not been in the loop like some of us nut heads!

I disagree, however, that it should be on the Sierra-1 page. If someone is shopping the speaker page and has ruled out the -2's based on budget, they will gravitate to the -1's, and would never buy a new pair of -1's AND the -2 upgrades together. The reason, I believe, to keep the info on the -2 page is for a current -1/NrT owner considering upgrading to the -2's under several conditions: (1) They don't want to try selling their -1's and using the proceeds towards a new pair of -2's, so this saves them the hassle. (2) They simply cannot afford a complete new pair.

There are probably many more reasons I am missing, but those are the major points.

I suppose Ascend could put a little link on -1 page, such as: "To upgrade existing Sierra-1/NrT to Sierra-2 click here".

[davef]

It's confusing, really, if it's an upgrade for sierra-1, then it should be on sierra-1 page, not sierra-2..

At some point, we will likely have a separate product page for upgrades.

[Roen]

Sierra-2 Upgrade Instructions

Recommended Tools:

Phillips head screwdriver
1/2" Hex Nut Driver (1/2” socket)
Nail or small, thin-shaft screwdriver
Stubby handled Phillips head screwdriver (short handle)

Included Parts:

Sierra-2 Ribbon Tweeter, Tweeter Gasket and Tweeter Spacer
Sierra-2 Woofer and Gasket
Sierra-2 Crossover


1 Remove the Tweeter Video Link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-AVEx7P1K0)

a) Gently lay the speaker back so the front of the speaker is facing upward.
b) Using the Phillips head screwdriver, carefully remove the (4) screws from around the perimeter of the tweeter and set them aside.
c) Lean the speaker forward and carefully remove the tweeter and gasket from the cabinet.
d) Gently remove each female wire connector from the tweeter’s male terminals. You will need to gently wiggle the connector to remove it from the terminal. Do not apply too much force or you will risk damaging the tweeter and/or the connector itself.

2 Remove the Woofer Video Link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvefWt0rLA4)

a) Using the Phillips head screwdriver, carefully remove the (4) screws from around the perimeter of the woofer and set them aside.
b) Lean the speaker forward and carefully remove the woofer from the cabinet.
c) Gently remove each female connector from the woofer’s male terminals. You will need to gently wiggle the connector to remove it from the terminal. Do not apply too much force or you will risk damaging the woofer and/or the connector itself.

3 Remove damping material and disconnect the crossover lead wires Video Link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mESvZnXnmgw)

a) Reach inside the cabinet, fold the white Dacron batting material in half and then pull it from the cabinet.
b) Using the 1/2" Hex nut driver, carefully remove the securing nut from each of the two binding posts on the inside of the cabinet and set these aside.
c) Using your fingers, remove the lock washer that is underneath the nut you just removed and set these aside. The crossover lead wires should now be free.
d) Remove the red and black crossover lead wires from the binding post terminals.

4 Remove the old crossover Video Link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0p2v1IlTpVw)

a) Examine the crossover board which is secured on the bottom of the speaker cabinet. Locate the (4) securing screws at each corner of the crossover board.
b) Using the stubby handled Phillips head screwdriver, carefully remove each of the (4) screws and set these aside. Please be careful to avoid damaging any of the crossover components.
c) After all (4) screws have been removed, remove the crossover from the speaker cabinet.

5 Install crossover screws Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Ln6_hPh4q4)

Using the same screws that you removed from the Sierra-1 crossover, insert these into the (4) screw holes in the Sierra-2 crossover.

6 Install Sierra-2 crossover into speaker cabinet Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rk5qOun2oQI)

a) Look inside the speaker cabinet and find the (4) screw hole inserts on the bottom baffle.
b) Place the Sierra-2 crossover inside the cabinet such that each mounting screw is lined up with each corresponding screw insert. Align the crossover such that the two crossover lead wires are in the back of the cabinet and the woofer and tweeter wires are towards the front of the cabinet.
c) Using the stubby handled Phillips head screwdriver, gently tighten down each mounting screw, making sure that each screw is tightening down in the screw insert. The crossover board must not bend so take your time.

7 Attach crossover lead wires to binding posts Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqngb7n0qQ8)

a) Place the crossover lead wires back onto the binding post terminals. Please make sure to keep red to red and black to black.
b) Install the lock washers that were removed in step 3, part c.
c) Install the nuts that were removed in step 3, part c.
d) On the back of the cabinet, locate the binding posts. Unscrew the plastic knob on both the positive and negative terminals.
e) Insert your nail or thin-shaft screwdriver into the hole in the red positive brass terminal and grasp it there for counterforce while you perform the next step.
f) Using the 1/2” Hex nut driver, tighten down from within the cabinet the securing nut of the red positive terminal. This should be tightened so that the binding posts on the back of the speaker are secure and will not twist or turn, and so that the nail or screwdriver lever remains as close to vertical as possible. Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHPKIYmqFu0)
g) Repeat steps e) & f) for the black negative terminal of the binding post.
h) Inspect the holes in the brass terminals of the binding posts to ensure they are vertical. Once satisfied, rescrew the plastic covers of the binding posts.

8 Reinstall the damping material Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bDD6b8XU_M)

a) Grab the woofer and tweeter crossover wires and position them so that they hang outside the speaker cabinet.
b) Fold the damping material in half and place it back into the cabinet.
c) Unfold the damping material such that it now covers the internal walls of the cabinet.

9 Install the new tweeter Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZisCU8p4yY)

IT IS IMPERATIVE TO LEAVE THE PAPER GUARD IN PLACE OVER THE RIBBON DURING THE ENTIRE INSTALLATION PROCESS!!!

a) Grab the red and black crossover wires and insert them through the opening in the shelf brace and then out through the tweeter opening.
b) Gently push the plastic lead covers down the length of the wire exposing the female terminals.
c) Place the tweeter gasket into the tweeter cutout and position it such that all (4) screw holes are aligned.
d) Place the tweeter spacer over the tweeter gasket.
e) As you hold the tweeter with the male terminals facing you and oriented to the bottom of the assembly, you will observe two of the larger male terminals on the tweeter -- you must use the one on the right (This is demonstrated in the video).
f) Using the red and black crossover wires, gently push the female terminals back onto the corresponding male terminals on the new tweeter.
Note: it may be helpful to place a daub of solder on each connection. You may also gently crimp the terminals with pliers. Regardless, you must ensure that the connection is solid before closing up the speaker.
g) Slide the plastic lead covers back over the female terminals.
h) Place the new tweeter back into the speaker cabinet.

10 Install the new woofer Video Link (http://youtu.be/B2VSEzZSKAk)

a) Grab the brown and black crossover wires and pull them outside the speaker cabinet through the woofer opening.
b) Gently push the plastic lead covers down the length of the wire exposing the female terminals.
c) Place the included gasket in the cutout with the holes in the gasket aligned with the screw holes.
d) Using the brown and black wires, gently push the female terminals back onto the corresponding male terminals on the woofer. Note: it may be helpful to place a daub of solder on each connection. 0You may also gently crimp the terminals with pliers. Regardless, you must ensure that the connection is solid before closing up the speaker.
e) Slide the plastic lead covers back over the female terminals.
f) Place the woofer into the speaker cabinet ensuring the screw holes are aligned.

11 Insert the woofer and tweeter securing screws Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bWvts-pep4)

a) Using your hands, manipulate the positioning of the woofer and tweeter such that the screw holes in each component align with the screw holes in the loudspeaker cabinet.
b) Insert the (4) woofer mounting screws and (4) tweeter mounting screws. Note, these use the same screws. Hand tighten each screw.

12 Tighten all screws Video Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kA1YFyFtAno)

a) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, securely tighten down all (8) screws. Do not over tighten!
b) It is now time to remove the paper guard from the ribbon tweeter.

IT IS IMPERATIVE TO GENTLY AND SLOWLY SLIDE THE PAPER GUARD IN THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROW, NOT PULL IT OFF!!!

Failure to follow this instruction can damage the extremely sensitive and thin ribbon.

Congratulations, you are finished!

What are the symptoms of tweeter damage due to pulling the paper guard off?

[davef]

What are the symptoms of tweeter damage due to pulling the paper guard off?

It could potentially tear the diaphragm. If no tear, no worries :)

[Roen]

It could potentially tear the diaphragm. If no tear, no worries :)

http://i63.tinypic.com/2mxlnbd.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/14j9n3n.jpg

Pics of the diaphragms, I think they're ok?

[davef]

http://i63.tinypic.com/2mxlnbd.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/14j9n3n.jpg

Pics of the diaphragms, I think they're ok?

They are perfect. It would actually take a considerable amount of air-pressure to tear them by popping on or pulling off the protective board, it is really just a precaution.

[sharkman]

I just finished upgrading a pair of Sierra 1 speakers, and the improvements puts a smile on my face. The ribbons really are detailed, and the driver is quite a treat. Jazz, vocals and instruments all sound so natural and open. This kit is definitely a worthwhile upgrade and I'd recommend it to anyone who wants more out of their music.

[davef]

I just finished upgrading a pair of Sierra 1 speakers, and the improvements puts a smile on my face. The ribbons really are detailed, and the driver is quite a treat. Jazz, vocals and instruments all sound so natural and open. This kit is definitely a worthwhile upgrade and I'd recommend it to anyone who wants more out of their music.

Excellent! Glad you are enjoying them and I hope the upgrade process itself was enjoyable.

[sharkman]

Yes, it was enjoyable. The written instructions and the videos made the process easy to follow and took any guess work out of the equation. In fact, I also have some old Sierra 1's that are about 8 years old. I installed the drivers and crossovers from the first pair in them as well just because I could!

Again, anyone that's considering this upgrade, the results really are worth it.

[kdaq]

Just an FYI to folks. I ordered a pair of upgrade kits, and Dina tells me they are currently out of stock until after the holidays.

Ah well, gives me something fun to look forward to. :)

I really appreciate having a clear upgrade path, so I can invest in my system gradually. The option of this upgrade kit is a big reason I went with Sierra-1s in the first place. Thanks for offering it!

[davef]

Just an FYI to folks. I ordered a pair of upgrade kits, and Dina tells me they are currently out of stock until after the holidays.

Ah well, gives me something fun to look forward to. :)

I really appreciate having a clear upgrade path, so I can invest in my system gradually. The option of this upgrade kit is a big reason I went with Sierra-1s in the first place. Thanks for offering it!

We are about 3-4 weeks away from having more in stock so the wait time is not too bad :)

Take care!

[kdaq]

Just finished my upgrade. Lots of fun!

My other obsession is photography, so I thought I'd document the process. Here's a few samples:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/39060128755_ed7f761af0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22vBnrM)Remove tweeter (https://flic.kr/p/22vBnrM) by Kevin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4672/39060135715_fcc0fab87b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22vBpvM)Removed woofer (https://flic.kr/p/22vBpvM) by Kevin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4655/25087053027_f8b21b2ed8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EdRGR2)Remove crossover screws with small screwdriver (https://flic.kr/p/EdRGR2) by Kevin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4755/39247876834_574e4487c0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22NcCpC)Place and screw in Sierra-2 crossover (https://flic.kr/p/22NcCpC) by Kevin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4657/26085465118_86ddf3c667_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FK5PYA)Connect ribbon tweeter wires (https://flic.kr/p/FK5PYA) by Kevin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4614/25087075707_770305a828_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EdRPA4)Connect woofer wires (https://flic.kr/p/EdRPA4) by Kevin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4710/25087053627_18393d2811_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EdRH2n)Paper is magnetically attracted, keep sliding down (https://flic.kr/p/EdRH2n) by Kevin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4611/25087052707_e3cd0dbe39_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EdRGKv)Sierra-2 and Sierra-1 together (https://flic.kr/p/EdRGKv) by Kevin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/), on Flickr

I couldn't post more than this with current forum limits, but I documented all steps. Full set here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdaq/sets/72157663123602107/with/25087053247/

Cheers, and thanks for the awesome upgrade path!

-Kevin

[chas]

Great pics Kevin - thanks

[rifmon]

Wow those pics on Flickr are really well presented. How long did it take you to do this? I'm torn between doing this or simply selling and buying a new set. Thanks!

[kdaq]

Thanks chas and rifmon, I appreciate that.

I took my time and experimented a bit. Setup, shooting, teardown, and post processing took most of a nice lazy Saturday.

Just doing the swap without shooting photos is way faster. :) The second speaker I did after I tore down the photo setup. Took me 40 minutes going carefully.

I encourage everyone to give it a shot! I'm certainly not the handiest person, but it was a great experience.

[rifmon]

Great! So 40 minutes on one after you did it once is pretty, Pretty Good!

I imagine it could take maybe 4 hours sans photo shop prep and take-down. Not bad at all. Still not certain if I'm going to proceed with a kit vs new and sell off mine. I do know my cabinets will work without surgery though.

So from what you're saying, the kit install connects one to his or her 2's! But your pics and labels on Flickr are so well mapped out, I think I could do it if I choose to proceed.

[kdaq]

Oh yeah, four hours should be plenty. Be sure to check out the videos in the first link as well, I found those very helpful to understand the process before I dove in.

Also note, I noticed earlier in this thread a few mentions that Ascend can also do the upgrade for you. I'd contact them before selling your pair if you opt not to do it yourself.

Cheers,

-Kevin

[rifmon]

Thanks.


I have a $ question; Are the Sierra-1 tweeters, woofers and crossovers worth any money on the second-hand market to help offset the cost of the kits at $816.00?

To those who did the upgrade, were you able to sell the 1's successfully?

I'm thinking I could get at least $400.00 is for my 1's leaving less than $1000.00 to come up with for a brand new set.

Thanks

[davef]

Thanks.


I have a $ question; Are the Sierra-1 tweeters, woofers and crossovers worth any money on the second-hand market to help offset the cost of the kits at $816.00?

To those who did the upgrade, were you able to sell the 1's successfully?

I'm thinking I could get at least $400.00 is for my 1's leaving less than $1000.00 to come up with for a brand new set.

Thanks

I doubt you would be able to sell the Sierra-1 parts, but selling a pair of Sierra-1 on the used market should be relatively easy.

[kdaq]

Is Ascend still buying back Sierra-1 parts?

[davef]

Is Ascend still buying back Sierra-1 parts?

We ended that about a year ago. The parts really had zero value to us and with shipping costs getting higher and higher, it just became not worth it for customers.

[kdaq]

Makes sense. Thanks, Dave.

[XEagleDriver]

Kevin,
Just finished an LCR S1 to S2 upgrade. Between your pics, the written instructions, and the YT videos, it was a smooth project and enjoyable. The fun starts now as I am working back through my SACD and movie libraries!
Thanks to you and the helpful folks at Ascend (aka Amy).
Cheers,
XEagleDriver

[kdaq]

Kevin,
Just finished an LCR S1 to S2 upgrade. Between your pics, the written instructions, and the YT videos, it was a smooth project and enjoyable. The fun starts now as I am working back through my SACD and movie libraries!
Thanks to you and the helpful folks at Ascend (aka Amy).
Cheers,
XEagleDriver
That's awesome, glad to hear it! The S2 is really something else, and it sounds that much sweeter when you apply your own elbow grease. :)

[Blingleberry]

The S2EX upgrade instruction sheet refers to this thread for Video links. But all I can find is the S1->S2 videos. Am I missing something?

[davef]

The S2EX upgrade instruction sheet refers to this thread for Video links. But all I can find is the S1->S2 videos. Am I missing something?

It is basically the same process....

[Qman]

I'm rather surprised to learn that the driver connections are not silver soldered, in order to reduce contact resistance to a minimum, and to eliminate fretting corrosion.
Would it hurt the drivers at all to solder the leads as opposed to using crimp spades?
Thanks

[davef]

I'm rather surprised to learn that the driver connections are not silver soldered, in order to reduce contact resistance to a minimum, and to eliminate fretting corrosion.
Would it hurt the drivers at all to solder the leads as opposed to using crimp spades?
Thanks

Hi Q,

Those are faston connectors, and they are an industry standard and used in just about every speaker out there. I have never come across any production line manufactured speaker that actually soldered the connectors to the driver. Doing so would be a logistical nightmare, dramatically raising costs with no benefits. When it comes to resistance, we are talking about thousandths of an ohm here, immeasurable and having zero effect on performance.

You can attempt soldering the leads if you like, but unless you have serious solder skills - you will heat up the tinsel wires on the driver and potentially cause permanent damage. I don't recommend it.

[Qman]

Thanks Dave.
I know the Legacy Focus speakers I had were soldered. (Which didnt make up for their other shortcomings) I've seen the effects of fretting corrosion on moving/vibrating connections, and many times dielectric grease is recommended. Perhaps that might be an option?
Some Audiophiles pay big $ to get that thousandth of an ohm out of their speaker wire! ...and pay huge sums for an amp with a giant damping factor! Probably some of the same folks who dont want any passive crossovers in their speakers!?

[Natural1]

Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove a "stuck" Sierra2EX woofer? I'm upgrading to the V2 crossovers and one of the woofers does not want to be removed. The fit it too tight and gravity isn't enough to get it out.

[racrawford65]

Did you try the trick with one of the screws as per the instructions?

https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/upgrades/products/sierra-2ex-to-sierra-2ex-v2?variant=40434233278518

If the screw doesn't work, you may want to try the same but using something longer (like a screwdriver) as it will give more leverage.

[Natural1]

Did you try the trick with one of the screws as per the instructions?

https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/upgrades/products/sierra-2ex-to-sierra-2ex-v2?variant=40434233278518

If the screw doesn't work, you may want to try the same but using something longer (like a screwdriver) as it will give more leverage.

Thanks, I did try the screw trick. No luck. Will be calling Ascend today.

[racrawford65]

Try something longer than a screw so you can get more leverage.

a couple of other thoughts:
1. maybe try a plastic putty knife between the woofer and cabinet on the outer diameter of the woofer.
2. maybe try rotating the woofer clockwise/counter clockwise a few times. Woofer/gasket may be stuck to the cabinet.
3. maybe try chilling the outer metal frame of the woofer with compressed air

[Natural1]

Try something longer than a screw so you can get more leverage.

a couple of other thoughts:
1. maybe try a plastic putty knife between the woofer and cabinet on the outer diameter of the woofer.
2. maybe try rotating the woofer clockwise/counter clockwise a few times. Woofer/gasket may be stuck to the cabinet.
3. maybe try chilling the outer metal frame of the woofer with compressed air

Thanks for the suggestions! In this case it appears that the woofer is very tight particularly on the left and right sides (when viewed upright). There's a tiny bit of space along the top and bottom, but not on the left and right edges. I thought about rotating it, but would need to come up with a way to do so safely as that would likely take a fair amount of force to get it moving (and no easy way to do that). I'm starting to wonder if I can make a jig that would fit through the tweeter hole and down in front of the port so that I could push it from behind. Probably could, but would be tricky to get it right.

I sent a note to Dave & Dina a little while ago, and will see what they say. I just want to make sure that I do what I can to avoid any cabinet damage.

Thanks again!

[racrawford65]

You're welcome.

Can you use two screws or two Philip head screwdrivers in opposite screw holes to try & rotate?

As to pushing from behind, maybe a long spatula, wooden spoon or plastic ruler might work?

Hopefully, Dave and Dina will have some other suggestions.

Good luck with it. Let us know how you finally got it out!

[Natural1]

Got it! I completely forgot I had an Ascend Woofer Removal Tool (AWRT) in the basement...

2601

Wedge the nail head under the rim and carefully pull. Hope this helps someone else.

[ahender]

Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove a "stuck" Sierra2EX woofer? I'm upgrading to the V2 crossovers and one of the woofers does not want to be removed. The fit it too tight and gravity isn't enough to get it out.

I used a bungee cord. Take the plastic tip off, straighten the hook out some and it works great. You pull it up rather than pry it up.

[racrawford65]

Glad you got it sorted, Natural1 (Natural1 is a UFO song - not sure if that was your inspiration for your user name)

[Natural1]

Glad you got it sorted, Natural1 (Natural1 is a UFO song - not sure if that was your inspiration for your user name)

I think that song is "Natural Thing" right?

Anyway, it's an old High School nickname. From many, many years ago.

[racrawford65]

you're right on that...my mistake (must be old age - don't know how many times I've listened to Strangers in the Night)

[racrawford65]

I was checking the cut-outs on my Horizon for ELX upgrade and had difficulty with the woofers, as well. I used a small Allen head wrench to pry gently in the screw hole, working my way around all 4 holes. Worked really well. Posting in this thread as it should also work on the S2EX woofers.

[Mag_Neato]

One of my EX woofers stuck as well. I used two Allen keys in opposing holes and turned the woofer frame in the cutout which loosened it up.

[davef]

Some really great tips here on removing a stuck woofer. Another good one is to use a cheap dental pick.

[RMW]

Hi All - I’m trying to switch my EX and LX enclosures. I prefer the natural finish my EX speakers have, so would like to swap out the espresso finished cabinets my LXs have since the LX are in my main listening room. Anyway, I’m having a heck of a time removing one of the connectors from one of the LX woofers. Any tips to get it to budge? I’m trying not to use too much force so I don’t break anything. I’ve done a few upgrade kits and don’t recall having this issue much difficulty before.

As an FYI the LXs are factory and not from an upgrade kit.

Thanks!

[racrawford65]

When I did my Towers, I had a couple of tough connectors. I used needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth (meaning side to side) and then to pull it off. On one, I also applied a bit of pressure with these pliers on the sides to help loosen.

I also used these to compress a couple of connectors when reassembling as they were too loose on the new drivers.

I didn’t have one, but maybe a very fine pick (likely l-shaped) to insert at the top of the connector between it and the spade to break loose

[davef]

Hi All - I’m trying to switch my EX and LX enclosures. I prefer the natural finish my EX speakers have, so would like to swap out the espresso finished cabinets my LXs have since the LX are in my main listening room. Anyway, I’m having a heck of a time removing one of the connectors from one of the LX woofers. Any tips to get it to budge? I’m trying not to use too much force so I don’t break anything. I’ve done a few upgrade kits and don’t recall having this issue much difficulty before.

As an FYI the LXs are factory and not from an upgrade kit.

Thanks!

Please feel free to give us a call at the office tomorrow. We have a lot of little tricks to remove the faston terminals.

[RMW]

I spoke with Dina this afternoon and she gave me a couple of pointers. I now have LXs in natural and EXs in Espresso. ��

Thanks!
Ryan

[racrawford65]

Might be useful to post those pointers here in case others have same issue

[guy]

Just completed an upgrade to the LXs from the Sierra-2s. The most difficult step was step1. Removing the female connectors from the tweeter terminals was tough, especially the negative connection. I wiggled and wiggled as instructed to no avail. I went to Google and found the trick: use a thin safety pin or allen key (we have a set that gets microscopically thin and used this) and push it into the hole in the female connector. This plus a slight wiggle will free the stuck connections. Three of the four connections needed this approach. After this everything was just as the instructions suggested.

The new upgrades are now breaking in but already sound sweeeeet!