System Components, do I need anything else?

[masse1369]

Front L/R Speakers: Ascend Acoustics CBM-170 SE
Center Channel Speaker: Ascend Acoustics CMT-340 SE
Rear Surround Speakers: Ascend Acoustics HTM-200
Powered Subwoofer: HSU Research VTF-2 MK2
$1,403.00

Speaker Stands: Wood Technology MU-30 (2 Pair)
$175.98

A/V Receiver: Pioneer VSX-1015TX
$428.99

DVD Player: Oppo Digital OPDV971H
$213.99

Power Conditioner: Panamax M5100-EX
$248.00

Remote Control: Logitech Harmony 880
$169.97


Total: $2,639.93

Is there anything on here you would change or what else do i need, besides cables? I will be using this system for about 90% HT and 10% Music. It will be in my living room which is open to kitchen, but the actual room measures about 15'x16', approx. 2400 cu ft. (just living area). Also, can someone please tell me a good place to buy quality cables from, and what all i will need to get. Thanks in advance.

Ryan

[rajacat]

Cables see: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/

[BradJudy]

While you can use the built-in calibration function of the 1015, I would recommend picking up a RadioShack SPL meter ($45) and Avia disc ($40) instead. The Avia disc will also allow you to properly calibrate your display.

Otherwise, it looks like you have the bases covered (assuming you own a TV :D ).

[curtis]

Looks like you got everything covered.

I also use BlueJeans for my cables. You can also try PartsExpress.com.

If you end up like many of us, you will start listening to more music and that 90/10 HT to music split will change dramatically.

[Abhi]

Beheringer Feedback Destroyer 1124: ~ $100. IMHO it's a must in any audio setup w/ a subwoofer.

[Jorge_Burrito]

I personally would dump the power conditioner for just a semi cheap surge protector. I think whether power conditioners do anything is highly debatable and at the very least at the point where you are just setting up a system is money better speant in other areas (better receiver?).

I will add that a spl meter and a calibration disk is a must! I was skeptic when I first purchased mine but it made everything from how my subwoofer integrated into my system to how my system sounded when panning from left to right to back sounds sooo much better.

[Eddie]

I wouldn't get the Pio 1015 for $428, for that money I'd get a Yamaha rxv-657 or 757 or better yet an HK 435 or 635. First though I might experiment with the digital switching Panasonic sa-xr55 for a paltry $230 shipped from amazon.com though I hear they're often out of stock.

I second Jorge's rec to dump the power conditioner, this is audiophile hocus pocus. With the $250 savings you can get an HK 635 which jr.com has for $650 shipped right now.

For cables I would just go to Home Depot and get their generic 12 gauge speaker cable or 12 gauge extension cord, and their generic (Phillips) interconnects.

Here’s a short but very incisive article, “The Ten Biggest Lies In Audio” by Peter Aczmel that’s worth reading even if you don’t agree with everything he says:

http://www.theaudiocritic.com/cwo/Sample_Articles/?id=5

This is a more systematic examination of the cable myths:

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

[masse1369]

I was thinking about getting a cheaper receiver to hold me off until some of the newer avr's come out with the upconverting and stuff like that, maybe I will try the panny out. Thanks for the replies.

[BradJudy]

I have to disagree on some of the thoughts on power conditioning. If you know you have noisy power from the source or have items like flourecent lights, dimmer switches, or some other types of devices on the same circuit, power conditioning can certainly make an audible/visible difference. This is an area that is well understood (use of capacitors and inductors to filter out high frequency noise and any DC voltage much like in a speaker crossover) and easily measured/demonstrated.

Of course, if you don't have such problems, you probably won't notice any difference and none of us can say if you will.

If you want to save a bit of money on that item, a few places have had the Monster 3500MkII on closeout for a while. Onecall has it for $170 - http://www.onecall.com/ProductDetails.aspx?bid=97&id=29477

[rajacat]

You might want to consider the Squeezebox, which is a device that can stream music stored on a computer's hard drive to your sound system via ethernet cable or wirelessly and with audiophile sound quality. http://www.slimdevices.com/

I have found that I listen to way more music when my entire music collection is instantly available via a wireless remote while sitting in my easy chair. Be aware that sometimes there are installation problems and the device does have a moderate learning curve so it does have a nerd quotient.

Check out this forum for some guidance and discussion related to the SB.
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/viewforum.php?f=46&sid=baca9e56db6e03b00d864dea6b5857a1

[gooch]

I have to disagree on some of the thoughts on power conditioning. If you know you have noisy power from the source or have items like flourecent lights, dimmer switches, or some other types of devices on the same circuit, power conditioning can certainly make an audible/visible difference. This is an area that is well understood (use of capacitors and inductors to filter out high frequency noise and any DC voltage much like in a speaker crossover) and easily measured/demonstrated.

Of course, if you don't have such problems, you probably won't notice any difference and none of us can say if you will.

If you want to save a bit of money on that item, a few places have had the Monster 3500MkII on closeout for a while. Onecall has it for $170 - http://www.onecall.com/ProductDetails.aspx?bid=97&id=29477

I agree with BradJudy on power conditioners/ac line filters. While not everyone may benefit from them, there are plenty that do. I lived in an older house that had ac issues. Just turning on my main power amp would make the lights go dim. Needless to say MY monster took care of them! I also live in monsoon country and have seen first hand what a good bolt of lightning can do to electronics devices, what was hooked up to the surge protector was saved, what wasn't fried! Also understand that the examples I am referring to were properly grounded per code as well. When that kind of juice wants to move...IT MOVES!! It seems to me a couple hundred bucks is cheap insurance to cover the thousands that I have invested in my HT stuff.

[Jorge_Burrito]

A follow up on my opinion on power conditioners. As i said I think it is debatable how useful they are. I am sure their are instances where they help (like some noted above), but I think in most cases it will not make a difference. Almost all electronics have some built in power conditioning (if nothing else then in the way it converts ad to dc). Unless the original poster for sure knows that they have a problem with the quality of electricity, it seems a waste of money that could go into your root system (which of course is where your most bang for the buck in sound enhancements come from).

Certainly you should be sure that your power is properly grounded and that you use a surge protector on your equipment.