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Thread: Center channel mounting solutions

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    913

    Default

    I'll post some when I make it, but I doubt it will look as nice as yours. The wood trim on the shelves is very nice. I'll have to look into doing uprights like yours instead of simple threaded rod. Any tips on building one?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Portland, Or
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Yeah... I've got a few tips... based on the Salamander style stand.

    1) Order the hardware kit for a Triple 20 from Salamander. It's not much more expensive than the alternatives and the hardware looks and works better than the available stuff from McMaster-Carr.

    2) Order the aluminum extrusions from a vendor such as tslots.com and have them cut them to length. They can tap the ends, but you'll need about 2 to 2 1/2" of thread depth. If they can't tap that deep you need to use a 5/16x18 nut tap that has a reduced shank. You can only get about 1" of thread depth with a standard tap. The cost savings is about 65% over Salamander.

    3) If you want casters for the base, order them from L. G. Rathbun. I believe they are the OEM for the Salamander casters. You want the Saturn 30s with the T12 stem and your choice of finishes. You can order the casters with or without brakes. The cost savings is about 40% over Salamander.

    4) You can make the stand easier or more challenging to build depending on your available tools, time, and experience.

    The bullnose edging I used requires the most time and tools. You need a circular saw, table saw, miter saw, biscuit joiner, belt sander, rotary sander, router w/ 3/8" 1/4 round bit, a bunch 24" clamps for the front/back edges and 2-3 7' bar clamps for the side edges. You can get by with a slightly different tool set, but that's what I used.

    If you like the bullnose edge but don't want to bother with hardwood trim, you can get Appleply for the top and bottom which is 100% void free plywood with a birch/alder core and maple veneer. It looks nice with an exposed edge unlike most plywood. You don't need the table saw, miter saw, biscuit joiner, clamps, or belt sander, but you will need the router. Appleply is expensive though, about $100 for a 4x8x3/4" sheet. You'd only need one sheet to cover the top, bottom and side panels. You could make the shelves out of MDF or less expensive matching plywood.

    Easiest of all would be to make the top and bottom pieces rectangular and use matching iron on edge banding to finish the edges of the plywood. Here's the example I found on AVS that inspired me to build my stand. Here's that stand finished and in place. He used black painted MDF for the shelves instead of matching oak. It's a nice contrast.

    5) Make the stand height so the center of your TV screen is about eye level. A few inches up or down isn't a big deal, but the closer the better. I found that 18" is about perfect for my Samsung DLP. Vertical viewing angle is the main weakness of most microdisplays, so sitting squarely in the sweet spot is the best idea.

    6) Use an easy to use finish. Danish Oil and wipe-on oil based poly are my favorites because it's easy to get a nice smooth finish without brush strokes or bubbles in the finish.

    If you have any questions as you move forward, just ask.
    -Jim

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    913

    Default

    Thanks Jim, lots of good information. This is definitely a cooler option than threaded rod (I have done one threaded rod rack and one gas pipe rack). I can't seem to find the hardware kit on Salamander's site. Do you have a link?

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Portland, Or
    Posts
    165

    Default

    You have to call them to order it, but you can get the part number from the installation instructions available on their site. I believe the part number was PHK-470, and $40 plus shipping. Extra shelf pegs (3 sets are in the kit) are $2 each. You need two PHK-370 and two PHK-380 for each shelf.
    -Jim

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    158

    Default Maybe a little OT

    Hi all,
    Unless you have a projector screen you can place your speakers
    behind, the majority of us are having to place our center speakers
    either above or below our display. Does anyone know if it matters
    which it is? I heard a discussion about this at AVS years ago, but
    I can't remember the consensus.
    One is preferable to the other, based on how we hear, if I recall.
    So what's the best- above or below?

    Rick

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Portland, Or
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Above the screen and flush with or slightly in front of the screen is best. We don't localize sounds from above as readily as we do from below. Also, many people have furniture (coffee tables) between their screen and listening position. The acoustic anomalies that creates are only compounded when a speaker has to fire at furniture on the way to the ears.
    -Jim

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    44

    Default Dave's center channel mount

    Does anyone know if this mounting bracket swivels horizontally? Based on Dave's pics, it doesn't look like it, but I would need to swivel the support arm a little to the left as my TV is not centered on a wall stud.
    What if the Hokey Pokey is what it's all about?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Portland, Or
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Almost all TV mounts I have seen swivel horizontally. I would imagine it does. You should call Ascend to find out for sure... Dave is now stocking it for $50 + $8 shipping.
    -Jim

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Charter Oak, Iowa
    Posts
    579

    Default

    I'm (almost) positive it does rotate/swivel.

    Randy

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    44

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by s2pdname
    Does anyone know if this mounting bracket swivels horizontally? Based on Dave's pics, it doesn't look like it, but I would need to swivel the support arm a little to the left as my TV is not centered on a wall stud.
    Just got off of the phone with Dave F., and for anyone who was wondering, the support arm of this specific tv stand does not swivel side to side. However, the company (pinpointmarketinginc.com) does list a bracket that will swivel, model #BT 518. This bracket also lists for $50, but it is silver.

    I guess another option would be to move my tv, and stand, so that it is centered.
    What if the Hokey Pokey is what it's all about?

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