My BFD experience.

[Nicholas Mosher]

The spike at 60Hz is induced by the height of the room from what I've been told. Knocking that 60Hz peak down will really clean up music and intense bass scenes.

I also have a rogue null up around 120Hz. Mine is from 105Hz to 115Hz, and is un-fixable in my case...

[Eddie Horton]

Mag, that doesn't look too bad. You have about 3 humps and a null to work on. I ended up with 3 "main" filters and then came back with 3 more to smooth things out to my liking. It looks like you could do the same thing, or even use less. Not bad at all. Just out of curiosity, is seems like everyone who has a hump at around 60Hz (which I did) also has a null around 120 (which I also did). If you have a hump at a certain frequency, will you always have a null at one octave higher? I need to study up on my room acoustics a little more.

[Mag_Neato]

Eddie,

that was my thought as well regarding filters. Ajax(Jack), from whom I'm buying the BFD, has burned a copy of the RealTraps test tracks to disc for me. These are in 1hz steps from 10-300hz, grouped in tracks of ten....track 1 is 10-19hz, track 2 is 20-29hz, etc., each tone lasting ten seconds, each track lasting 100 seconds. It will get real interesting when I run these!

[BradJudy]

Having nulls at multiples of frequencies can be either be because of the same room dimension (it produces standing waves at the multiples) or because another room dimension happens to be about double another one (e.g. 8ft ceiling and 16ft length). You can compute the likely room modes using one of many online calculators like this one:http://www.marktaw.com/recording/Aco...WaveCalcu.html

My best advice for you Mag, do 1/6 (or better) octave tones if you can get your hands on them. Then follow some of the advice here, kill your humps at ~63 and ~100. The 125 will be hard to fight with sub EQ since the crossover is dropping the output down quite a bit already there.

[sensibull]

2 quick questions while I await delivery on my BFD.

1) My sub is corner loaded across the room from my gear (only real option for it), and connected via a Parts Express sub cable that runs into a standard RCA cabe that was pre-installed in a wall plate when we moved in. I know it's FAR from ideal, but re-wiring it would be a complete nightmare. Up to this point, I haven't had any problems (that I know of), but I wondering whether its more advisable to introduce the BFD before or after the standard RCA cable (or does it make a difference?).

2) The BFD is 2-channel, but I only need to run one cable (and buy one 1/4"-to-RCA connector) if I'm only equalizing one sub, correct?

[Mag_Neato]

You put the BFD inline with the cable going to the sub, so you are, in effect, putting a break in that cable.

You need two 1/4" to RCA adapters.....one going to the input of the BFD, and one on the output of the BFD. From the output, you add another sub cable(RCA) to your sub.

[sensibull]

Thanks, Mag Neato. I actually understood all that (except the part about the need for 2 adapters -- thanks for that info)... what I was really asking was whether it was more advisable to insert the BFD before or after the weakest link in the chain, which in this case is a non-specialized, run-of-the-mill RCA cable (as opposed to a shielded, sub cable).

My setup currently goes like this.

Receiver sub out > 12-15 feet of standard RCA under the floor and in wall > wall plate > parts express sub cable > sub

So the BFD could go in my component rack, in which case it go before the standard RCA, or atop the sub, in which case it would be after. Probably doesn't matter, but I thought I'd check with those who know more than me first...

[Mag_Neato]

I'm getting my unit at lunch today........30 minutes!

I am using a 20 ft. SoundStream stereo cable. It's connected to a "Y" from the 1050's LFE out and runs to the subs L/R inputs. I'll need to do some rewiring to accomodate the BFD. It will be worth it to have more defined and articulate bass.

[curtis]

the lights on the BFD are pretty bright....any way to dim them?

[BradJudy]

the lights on the BFD are pretty bright....any way to dim them?

I think eletrical tape is the standard practice (seriously). If you wanted to mod a BFD, you might be able to add resistors inline with the LEDs, but that assumes there is room and they aren't surface mount.