My BFD experience.

[Eddie Horton]

Curtis, if you read the snapbug setup guide, you really don't need the Behringer manual. After reading a thread over at AVS, I'm with you about wanting to try TrueRTA. I'd need to buy a cheap used laptop and the rest of the gear, but it would be cool to be able to run tones through it and make changes with the BFD on the fly and actually see the results as you do it. Just when I think this hobby has gotten as expensive as it's gonna get for me, something else catches my eye.

[bikeman]

I don't think I've ever looked at the Behringer manual. Curtis, I can fax you a copy if you like.

David

[curtis]

Thanks Guys!

I just got an email back from Behringer saying they fixed their site.....I'll try it later. If I have a problem, David, I will let you know.

[curtis]

OK...making some progress...just ordered another sub cable from BlueJeans. I'll stop at Radio Shack some time this week to get the 1/4" to RCA adapters.

[sensibull]

You guys are dangerously persuasive... I went out and found myself a BFD on ebay as well (got it for $49.99), but I bought the older model, the DSP 1100P. Does anyone know what the differences are between the two units? At least one of the online guides to equalizating subs references this unit, so I'm assuming it will do what needs doing to tame my Dayton sub...

[curtis]

I do not know the differences, but I think it should do the job.

[Mag_Neato]

I retook my readings at lunch(yes, I'm able to go home at lunch!), and am getting different readings.

don't know if I misunderstood what I was reading from the meter or what....maybe some doors were closed before that were left open this time....I dunno?

I am getting the following(setting 80db REF. at 1000hz):

68db @ 20Hz

72db @ 25Hz

79db @ 31.5Hz

81db @ 40Hz

73db @ 50Hz

83db @ 63Hz

78db @ 80hz(Crossover point)

Since my sub is rated to 24Hz, I'll ignore the 20Hz figure. My thought is that since I calibrated the system with Avia to 85db, I had to turn the subs gain down to achieve that level due to the peak at 63Hz. That peak is +11db over the 25Hz point. The dip at 50Hz is 10db lower than the 63Hz peak. A second peak at 40Hz is 9db higher than the 25Hz point, with 31.5Hz being 7db higher than 25Hz. I'll use 25Hz as my REFERENCE point and cut down to this. I will probably have to raise the gain on the sub when I finish to bring the sound levels back to system ref.

I can't explain why my readings were so different from the first set I took, but I will definitely do some more before I get the BFD in the system.

Any thoughts, based on the numbers above, as to how many filters, at what frequencies and "Q" settings I should start off with?

Thanks!

[bikeman]

I would want more data points than just these few. There's too much going on here to tweak based on just this info. I'm anal so I use every freq between 20 and 120hz. Something interesting going on around 50hz for sure.

David

[Eddie Horton]

My listening room has 2 doors coming into it. If I take measurements with them open and then close them, it make a dramatic difference in the FR. Also, take measurements with 1/6 octave sine waves from 16 to around 160Hz. When learning how this thing works, set one filter and then change different parameters on purpose just to see what effect it will have. This, IMO, is the easiest way to get the hang of it. It will cut down on the number of filters you end up using because you will know how to maximize each one.

[curtis]

hmmm.....I have two closeable doors into my livingroom. When I am listening to music, both doors are usually open. When watching movies, it depends are the circumstances as to which doors are open.

The BFD can store different curves right?