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Thread: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    Ok, Dave, this is for you!
    I started to disassemble one speaker to prepare for the upgrade. I pulled the batting out and was going to take the crossover out with my stubby Phillips head screwdriver. Wouldn't you know it; there's Allen head screws holding it down. Since I now have to purchase one of those can you tell me what size I will need, and if it's SAE or Metric?
    Also, I managed to unscrew one lead from one binding post. There is no lockwasher as it had glue holding it tight. Is it ok to screw it back on without a washer after the upgraded board is in place?
    Ed

    * Sierra-2EX's W/V2 crossover upgrade
    * (2) Rythmik F12's
    * Parasound Halo P6
    * Audio by Van Alstine DVA-M225 Monoblock Amps
    * MiniDSP 2x4HD For Sub calibration
    *World's Best Cables Canare 4S11 speaker cables

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    30

    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    Sorry I forgot to mention that the crossover screws are Torx screws. I am using a T15 Torx bit:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx

    I have not been using lock washers. The nut seems pretty snug without one, an I don't think it is likely to come loose.

    I am just finishing my third upgrade. It is taking about an hour per upgrade. One of the cabinets had so much glue that the glue actually seeped through the mesh and bonded to the fiberglass. It was not possible to remove the batting without ripping the mesh. You might want to consider using your Dacron instead of replacing the fiberglass.

    -Dave

  3. #33
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    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    Thanks, Dave. Actually, I was directing the question to Dave F. but thanks for the response!

    I actually have a bit driver set that does include some Torx and Hex drivers, so I think I'm good. It also includes a flexible gooseneck extension which I will have to use since the bits all attach to a large screwdriver-type handle.

    Yes, I ripped the black mesh netting trying to remove the batting. I will probably cut some of the Dacron and install that in it's place.

    I also notice 1 other difference in the videos, which has absolutely no bearing on performance. The 1/4"-20 insert on the back of the cabinet is a threaded stud with a nut that is visible inside my cabinet, where the one in the videos has a block of wood covering that area on the inside.

    Interesting little differences. To be expected since my pair was one of the first ordered when the Sierra-1 was launched.
    Ed

    * Sierra-2EX's W/V2 crossover upgrade
    * (2) Rythmik F12's
    * Parasound Halo P6
    * Audio by Van Alstine DVA-M225 Monoblock Amps
    * MiniDSP 2x4HD For Sub calibration
    *World's Best Cables Canare 4S11 speaker cables

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    3

    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    Question for Dave F.:
    Is it okay to use magnetic screw/hex drivers for the upgrade, or would that be bad?

    On the one hand, the crossover doesn't look like the kind of thing you should be putting magnets around. On the other hand, the large magnet on the woofer is hanging out in there all the time.

  5. #35
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    Aug 2003
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    USA
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    5,538

    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    Quote Originally Posted by z0rn0rch View Post
    Question for Dave F.:
    Is it okay to use magnetic screw/hex drivers for the upgrade, or would that be bad?
    Absolutely not a problem at all
    .
    .
    .
    Good Sound To You!

    David Fabrikant
    www.ascendacoustics.com

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    30

    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    I have finished all five upgrades. It was definitely a project! I must say that I am a bit envious to read in the other thread how easy the upgrade was for owners of the newer Sierra-1's.

    -Dave

  7. #37
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    Mar 2004
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    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    An update: One Sierra-1 upgraded to the NrT.

    It would have been nice if the process went as smoothly as the videos, but they only addressed the newer production version with a different cabinet. the following is a list of the things I did to address these differences.

    1. The older cabinets used a crossover board which has a smaller footprint
    than the newer models. This means the mounting hole pattern is different
    and the new NrT crossover is not a direct drop-in. Also, the old crossover
    used Torx screws rather than Phillips head.

    Solution: Using a T15 Torx bit in a stubby, ratcheting screwdriver
    handle, I removed all four (4) screws AFTER removing the crossover lead
    wires from the binding posts. I placed the new crossover inside and secu-
    red the front-right corner of the board down in a threaded insert with an
    original Torx screw. I then switched the Torx T15 bit in the handle to a
    #2 Phillips bit. Using #6 X 5/8" LG. Spax brand, flat head construction scr-
    ews, I secured the other three (3) mounting holes. The Spax self tap with
    no problem.

    2. The older damping material is fiberglass encased in black mesh netting, and
    glued to the inside of the cabinet. This netting ripped in some spots during
    removal. I had some 1" Dacron batting on hand, so I cut a piece and used
    That so it looks like the video!

    3. The older binding posts have some sort of glue on them, rather than a lock
    washer. I simply unscrewed them without using Goo Gone as Dave F. sug-
    gested. It is a bit snug, but I got them off with no issues. I installed the
    new leads by simply tightening the nuts down. !!CAUTION!! I noticed after
    the fact, that by tightening the nuts I had caused the binding posts to
    rotate and thereby turned the speaker wire holes on the outside out of
    position. Not a big deal, but I may open the speaker up and try to adjust
    that.

    4. The woofer cutout is machined extremely close to the diameter of the
    woofer basket mounting ring, and if you do not put the woofer in as
    straight as possible it may become jammed cockeye, and will need to
    be pryed loose. I pryed it loose and held it just above the cutout while
    manually threading the screws in to help align it. This helped!

    That's it! No big issues that could not be corrected. After listening very briefly
    to the NrT Sierra and the un-modified Sierra-1 hooked up in stereo, I could
    pick out clearer, sharper highs right away with the NrT. I need to get the 2nd
    speaker done and do some serious listening! So far so good!
    Ed

    * Sierra-2EX's W/V2 crossover upgrade
    * (2) Rythmik F12's
    * Parasound Halo P6
    * Audio by Van Alstine DVA-M225 Monoblock Amps
    * MiniDSP 2x4HD For Sub calibration
    *World's Best Cables Canare 4S11 speaker cables

  8. #38
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    30

    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mag_Neato View Post
    4. The woofer cutout is machined extremely close to the diameter of the woofer basket mounting ring . . .
    One of my woofers was stuck and was very difficult to remove. When I finally got it loose, a small chip of the piano black finish broke off. I was able to glue the chip back in, and it does not look too bad. Also, I use this speaker as a rear speaker, so it is not a big deal. However, people that have not done this upgrade yet should keep this in mind as they are removing the woofers.

    -Dave

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    501

    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    Woa so that upgrade for the older Sierras are a bit more touchy I see... Hmmm... :\ Oh well, doesn't seem too insurmountable...

    Can you still manage to switch the binding post cables without destroying the mesh? Or since it's glued you'll pretty much have no choice but somehow ripping it off?

    And I'm guessing the goo gone dilutes the glue and then it's easy to just tighten back the posts once the crossovers have been switched?

    Those clips on the tweeters/drivers are very practical! Didn't know those things existed, looks much easier than soldering the wires!
    Last edited by GirgleMirt; 12-09-2010 at 05:13 PM.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    30

    Default Re: NrT Upgrade instructions with video!

    Yes, I would set aside 60-90 minutes a speaker to do it right, but it may go faster.

    Mag_Neato had luck with self-taping #6 screws, but I had a tough time getting my #4 screws to self-tap so I drilled pilot holes, which took more time.

    I also think it would be nice to see if Ascend would sell you Dacron to replace the fiberglass bags. Some of my bags were in pretty bad shape, and a day later I can still tell that there are bits of fiberglass embedded in me . It would have been a lot better if I could have just tossed the fiberglass and replaced it with Dacron.

    -Dave

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