stands for 340s

[lei@forum]

You also want the top to be smaller because it wouldn't look right if it were bigger. You don't want to see any of the top overhang the bottom of the speaker.
...

Exactly - especially the width (of the top plate of the stand) should be
narrower (than the width of the bottom of the speaker) so that you will
not see the top plate when the speaker is mounted. Just to avoid any
possible confusions, curtis :-)

Since the width of 340 is on the narrower end (7.5"), I did come across some
stands that I had to pass due to the width of the top plate ... one example,
the very solid-looking Dayton High Mass stands available at parts express.

[MrTomasulo]

Thanks a bunch. My Ascends are coming at the end of next week and I don't have my stands yet, so I'm just getting antsy.

I take it then that 5.5'' x 5.5'' would be adequate for 340s?

I was interested in some of these...
http://www.wood-tech.com/product.php?cat=ss&series=fgh

[SteveCallas]

5.5" x 5.5" tops and 26" tall should work out nicely.

[Drew.Ri]

I built these:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot...ppuser/7456874
for real cheap - pretty easy too.

Steve, these stands look great. Have you divulged the secret of how you built them yet?

Also, how are the speakers mounted to the stands? Do you just leave the speakers sitting on the stands or are they attached in any way?

I will hopefully be getting 170 mains in the next few weeks and would love to try some DYI stands for them. Not sure if I will be able to accomplish anything like yours, but can't wait to have fun trying.

By the way, loved the funny story thread over in the other forum. Lots of good info, well written, great story.

[Lou-the-dog]

[QUOTE=Drew.Ri]Steve, these stands look great. Have you divulged the secret of how you built them yet?[QUOTE=Drew.Ri]



Ditto on that! Throw in construction plans on that sub too! (or where to find the plans)

Randy

[SteveCallas]

Stands were easy. 2 layers of 3/4" MDF glued toegther for the top, and 2 layers for the bottom. Shape the bottom pieces however you want - I went with half arc fronts, and rounded ALL of the edges on the bottom pieces. The inside piece is of course smaller than the outer piece.

The tops are octagonal in shape, with minmal rounding, as they really won't be seen. The inside piece is again smaller than the outer piece.

The shafts are 3" diameter PVC. I got some threaded rod, 3/8" I believe, and have it running inside the tube. The inside piece sof MDF, on both the bottom and top, have holes in the center just big enough for the rod to be threaded through. The outside layers have much larger holes, something like 2.25", to allow room for a metal washer, the nut, and a socket wrench to tighten them down.

There are plans for similar DIY stands on the internet, which were my inspiration, but they only used one layer for the top, and one for the bottom, meaning you would have to have countersunk holes to attach the nuts. My stands are much beefier and sturder with the two layers, and are held together very tight. Mine are fillable with sand as well, just use a neoprene washer on the inside of the tube where the rod meets the MDF.

If that doesn't explain it, I can go into more detail for you if you like. VERY EASY project, for very cheap. The hardest part was trying to get the reflective finish.

As for the sub, I think a webpage with detailed plans is in order in the future, as I'm getting many requests.

[Drew.Ri]

ok, that stand seems doable. Cheap anyway so I can mess it up plenty of times first. Are you able to run the wires through the stand?

[SteveCallas]

I'm not doing that with mine, but it would be easy enough to modify to make that possible.