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Thread: Does a 340c fit into a Salamander Synergy cabinet ?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Oaktown, CA
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    226

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    Quote Originally Posted by BGHD
    Don't know if it works but Sanus uses some kind of convection-like design for ventilation. They're quite pricey too.
    Well here's a Sanus that seems to have a wide enough center shelf:
    https://www.sanus.com/cgi-bin/web_st...=1033503_17163

    Trouble is... this one is a bit low for what I plan on getting.

    Yeah... $1k is about what I expect to pay. Of course I'd like to pay less.

    shane
    Yes Eve, I like to watch.

    My setup:
    http://www.fototime.com/5EF1F78FC789849/orig.jpg
    HT: 340SE's Front & Center - 340 Classic's Surround, SVS PB110-ISD.
    Office (2-ch): 170SE's

  2. #2
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    May 2005
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    okay...after trying to understand the 2 pages of above or below, in or out...extra resonating acoustics and reflective surfaces aside...i was always told that the tweeters of your mains and center should be as inline as possible and "up"...is that kind of a myth, or one of those "cause we decided it sounded better that way" kind of deals? or am i opening up a whole new can of worms?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    38

    Default tweeters in a line

    The theory is that higher frequencies are more "localizable" (seem to come from a particular direction) than lower frequencies.

    I don't know if this is the official theory, but I figure it like this: sound travels at ~1K feet/second, so a 80Hz wave is about 14 feet, while a 20KHz wave is about a half an inch. Subwoofers set up room resonances, while tweeters set up responances in your ear -- move your ears in relation to the speakers a little, and you'll hear the tweeters differently.

    If you want to maintain the illusion that a sound that moves from left to center to right is coming from a source that is moving smoothly, then you don't want the center tweeter to be a lot lower or higher. The woofers don't matter as much as far as placement, and the subwoofer hardly at all.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tw1zt3d
    i was always told that the tweeters of your mains and center should be as inline as possible and "up"
    But, unless you have one of those perforated projections screens as mentioned earlier (which I've never known of before), for most people the line b/w the LR main tweeters will be right around the middle of a TV's screen. I was just looking for the best compromise b/w sound/aesthetics & was hoping placing the 340c in-cabinet would work (as opposed to on top of the cabinet). Also, I didn't wanna raise my plasma too high, so in-cabinet would allow me to mount the TV closer to an optimum height. With 340c in-cabinet with some type of backing to hide wires and pushed as close to the front as possible & angled up to listening are, while still maintaining the 18" above floor recommendation from Ascend, can I still get good results?

    I guess what you think are simple threads always open up a whole can of worms...but always worms that I didn't but should now consider in my plans. I was placing more emphasis on aesthetics over acoustics.

  5. #5
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    Portland, Or
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    Quote Originally Posted by BGHD
    With 340c in-cabinet with some type of backing to hide wires and pushed as close to the front as possible & angled up to listening are, while still maintaining the 18" above floor recommendation from Ascend, can I still get good results?
    You can have good results with this setup. If I were you, I'd consider keeping the center shelf open to the back to allow the speaker as open a space as possible to vent to.

    Like I mentioned before, I have my 340C on a shelf below my TV. The tweeter is only about 15" off the ground angled towards the listening area. The 340C sounds very good, but just not as great as it can sound. I can tell the difference in center image height when I A/B a phantom center to the 340C (due to it's low placement.) However, if I'm watching something in 5.1 DD or DTS, I don't notice the issue if I'm not conciously trying to look for it. I liken it to the way some people "try" to find rainbows in DLP TVs. If you dart your eyes across the screen, jerk your head, bla bla bla, you're more likely to see rainbows. So what? We don't watch TV that way. In other words, you can actively seek out a flaw that's there but not extremely obvious. But, if you don't notice it during normal usage, don't sweat it unless you REALLY want to.

    I'd prefer to have my speaker above the TV, but the WAF dictates I put it below. I'd rather have a 340C below than almost any other speaker above.
    -Jim

  6. #6
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    Mar 2005
    Location
    Austin, TX
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    My wife and I are looking to upgrade our TV within 6-9 months and a new TV stand/entertainment center is a must. I originally was disheartened to hear that the CMT340c would not fit in the Salamander triple 20.

    We went furniture browsing today and found a local dealer of Salamander furniture, and I was impressed by the quality of their furniture, and after closer examination, the CMT340 will fit in the center, but behind the aluminum support bars. The demo model they had on the floor had a 22" center channel on the shelf, but since there are no partitions between the sections, the speaker hung off each end by and inch or two. I believe the only problem would be if the drivers actually were in the way of the aluminum supports. I'll have to measure and check, but I don't think this is an issue.

    I think the Salamander units are priced a too high, but I think I could build one similar to jimsiff's for a little less. I'd have to get the shelf brackets and doors from Salamander, but the whole unit certainly be less than the $1200 that Salamander charges.

  7. #7
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    Did you bring your speaker to see if it'll fit? I thought others have mentioned the 340c will not fit?

    Please post pics when you set everything up. I'm still in my forever-search for A/V furniture. On my short list so far:

    -Salamander (double? triple?)
    -BDI Avion
    -DiamondCase TT400 (correct model #?)
    -DIY???
    Last edited by BGHD; 09-04-2005 at 11:50 AM.

  8. #8
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    Aug 2003
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    If you want to go with Salamander, their answer to a wide center channel is the riser that has no middle-front posts. They have pictures of using it with wide center channels on their website. Of course, it adds height and a good bit of cost. You can get it with multiple different spacer heights.

    If you go DIY, I recommend considering using drawer sliders for the center channel shelf like I did. It can really help with the sound of the center to bring it out a bit.

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