10AWG bare wire to CBM-170's & 340's?

from looking at my current setup, i don't think that you would be able to get 2 11.2 gauge strands through the binding post, but it does look like you could potentially get 3 out of the 4 strands in ascend's cable to get through at once. i didn't test it out, but it looks like there would be enough room. all four MIGHT fit, but it would be a really tight squeeze if it did.

since we're on the topic of speaker gauges, is there any adverse effects from going overkill with the wire gauge. i know my 11.2 is overkill for the distance i'm running, so i'm curious about this...

also, once i get some 340 SE Mains for up front (waiting on a center channel currently :D ), would it be ok to bi-wire them using the four strands in one speaker cable (one strand for each connection), or would a different wiring setup be better? i don't really need to know the answer to this any time soon, but i've been wondering about that for a while, as well.

I HAD my 340's biwired, but I recently listenned to a few different speakers in my home that were not bi-wireable, and took my speakers to places that were not set up for bi-wiring. So I have put the jumpers back on and went back to normal wiring. No differences that I can detect.

But yeah, it is OK to bi-wire them like you described.

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Originally Posted by Mag_Neato

According to my wire gauge chart, 10Ga. is .11768" Dia., or approx. 1/8". I'd think that would fit but I've never used the holes in the binding posts.

Bananas all the way, baby!!

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Is that stranded or solid core for the measurement? Stranded would be thicker.

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Originally Posted by Lee Bailey

Is that stranded or solid core for the measurement? Stranded would be thicker.

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Here's what I found...

Gage No. 10 Size in Inch
American Wire (Brown & Sharpe) Gage 0.1019
US Steel Wire Gage 0.135
British Standard (Imperial) Wire Gage 0.128
Music (Piano) Wire Gage 0.024
Birmingham (Stub's Iron) Wire Gage 0.134
Stub's Steel Wire Gage 0.191

So it should fit, eh?

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Originally Posted by curtis

I HAD my 340's biwired, but I recently listenned to a few different speakers in my home that were not bi-wireable, and took my speakers to places that were not set up for bi-wiring. So I have put the jumpers back on and went back to normal wiring. No differences that I can detect.

But yeah, it is OK to bi-wire them like you described.

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so, i just got my CMT-340SEc this afternoon (and man, is it a sexy looking speaker), and when reading through the little setup thing that comes with ascend speakers, i noticed that the bi-wire diagram has two cables coming out of one terminal on the receiver. this confuses me a little bit because i was always under the assumption that in order to bi-wire, you needed two different outputs on the receiver, such as A and B main speaker outs. with this, you could run one cable from the A speaker outs to one of the pairs of inputs on the speaker, and the other cable from the B speaker outs to the other pair.

i know you said you don't notice any difference between bi-wiring and single-wiring with the bridges, but if using only one speaker out on the receiver is the correct way to do bi-wiring, i think i would prefer to set my new speaker up that way (using the two pairs of wires in Ascend's speaker cable to do bi-wiring like i described above). sorry if this comes off as redundant... i thought i had this whole bi-wiring thing figured out. any suggestions on how i should hook this baby up? (also, if i single wire the speaker, does it go into the woofer or tweeter inputs? i don't think it should matter since the bridges would be in, but i don't want to mess anything up)

Thanks

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Originally Posted by drewface

so, i just got my CMT-340SEc this afternoon (and man, is it a sexy looking speaker), and when reading through the little setup thing that comes with ascend speakers, i noticed that the bi-wire diagram has two cables coming out of one terminal on the receiver. this confuses me a little bit because i was always under the assumption that in order to bi-wire, you needed two different outputs on the receiver, such as A and B main speaker outs. with this, you could run one cable from the A speaker outs to one of the pairs of inputs on the speaker, and the other cable from the B speaker outs to the other pair.

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I think you're describing bi-amping instead of bi-wiring.

so i SHOULD use one speaker out... alright, i'll give it a try. thanks!