BI-Wiring????

Hello,
I know this question has been asked a thousand times before. Is there any advantage to Bi-Wiring the 340's? If not why is there two sets of binding posts, I know Bi-Amping comes into play here also, thus two sets of posts. If I decide to Bi-wire the mains should I also do the same for the 340 center? My receiver is capable of Bi-Amping the mains, I realize this is not true Bi-amping, is there any advantage to this? My speakers are on the way and would like to have the cables prepared for whatever option I decide to use? Thanks a lot guys for listening, I look forward to all who would like to share their thoughts, I believe this is a subjective topic but am curious to hear some subjective and objective input as well!
Cheers, Jeff

biwiring may be beneficial if you don't have the proper gauge speaker wire for the distance you are running it; but most would never experience that issue since we keep our amps and AVRs somewhat close to the speakers anyways.

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Originally Posted by scape

biwiring may be beneficial if you don't have the proper gauge speaker wire for the distance you are running it; but most would never experience that issue since we keep our amps and AVRs somewhat close to the speakers anyways.

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SCAPE, RIGHT NOW i HAVE SOME CUSTOM MADE (MYSELF) CABLES THAT i USE, TEN FEET PAIR AWG 10, I THINK THEY ARE VERY GOOD, JUST WONDERING ABOUT BI-WIRING, THE CONCENSUS IS THAT THERE IS NO AUDILBLE ADVANTAGE, I'LL STICK WITH WHAT I HAVE NOW.
jEFF

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Originally Posted by Jeff52

Hello,
I know this question has been asked a thousand times before. Is there any advantage to Bi-Wiring the 340's? If not why is there two sets of binding posts, I know Bi-Amping comes into play here also, thus two sets of posts. If I decide to Bi-wire the mains should I also do the same for the 340 center? My receiver is capable of Bi-Amping the mains, I realize this is not true Bi-amping, is there any advantage to this? My speakers are on the way and would like to have the cables prepared for whatever option I decide to use? Thanks a lot guys for listening, I look forward to all who would like to share their thoughts, I believe this is a subjective topic but am curious to hear some subjective and objective input as well!
Cheers, Jeff

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It is true bi-amping that you're mentioning, which is simply supplying more amplifier power to the speaker posts from 2 different amps, its particularly helpful if their isn't enough dynamics from one amp, or the speaker is too difficult to drive without an additional amplifier, etc.. the only main difference is the lack of complete separation between amplifier channels, resulting in possible cross talk/noise i believe, due to them sharing circuitry, internals, power supply, etc. So it is true bi-amping, just not full separation.. Mono-block amplifiers would allow full separation, more power, etc. as they are completely isolated. Beyond that, I wouldn't worry much, as long as the amplifier itself is capable/potent enough to accomplish what you're wanting.

Bi-wiring itself I do agree is pretty much a moot point.. though like everything, it'll always be around, same with burn-in, and the like. Tube-amplifiers are a different story as far as that goes, burn-in there I can believe is justified. A light bulb does need to warm up after all, and after enough use, it'll subsequently need to be replaced. Enough Burn-in = Burn-out.

Things that are solid state, no need. A cpu for example, its not going to run any better the hotter it gets above room temperature. Amplifiers are very much the same thing, unless they have a fan inside that needs enough time to quiet down or whatever. But again, that's not solid state either. An engine needs to warm up for much the same reason, runs poorly when it's too cold. Speakers, again, they're not solid state, so they do have expansion where heat from movement and all is involved, with the drivers coils and other internals, but they cool down after too, constrict, and back to their original form shortly after use.

Going back to the amplifier though, an insufficient amplifier can damage a speaker through clipping, from trying too hard to power it; overheating the drivers, as they aren't allowed to cool down as a result. Warm-up as it should be called, is justified to say, because its only temporary, physical expansion and contraction. Burn-in however, is really just a misnomer and another way of saying broke-n (lol).

Went on kind of a rant :P

edit: If you are going to bi-amp the 340, be sure to remove the binding clips that are attached to each pair of posts beforehand. The speaker can be damaged otherwise. You'll subsequently see that only the tweeter or woofers are powered then with only one amp connected, so, separately amping both posts is necessary at that point.

Thanks Choir for the very informative post.